Estimated reading time: 18 minutes

Updated July 2026

Working from home can give you more time with your dog, but it does not mean you need to entertain them throughout the entire working day.

Dogs also need rest, predictable routines and opportunities to feel comfortable when you are not immediately available.

Problems can develop when every movement, meeting and tea break becomes an event for the dog. They may begin following you constantly, demanding attention whenever you sit at your desk or struggling when you eventually need to leave the house.

A good working-from-home routine should meet your dog’s needs without teaching them that you are available every minute.

This guide explains how to balance walks, toilet breaks, rest, safe enrichment and gradual independence while you work.

For advice about actual absences, read Leaving Your Dog Home Alone: Safety, Boredom and Signs of Distress.

The quick answer

When working from home with a dog:

maintain reasonably consistent feeding and walking times
provide a suitable toilet opportunity before work
allow time for your dog to settle after the walk
create a comfortable resting place
schedule short breaks rather than responding to every demand
use calm, familiar enrichment where appropriate
include periods when your dog rests away from your desk
practise brief separations while you are still working at home
avoid feeding treats throughout every meeting
arrange daytime care when work prevents you meeting your dog’s needs
watch for signs of pain, illness or separation-related distress

Dogs Trust recommends keeping a similar morning routine on home and office days and including periods of time apart, even while you are at home. This helps the dog understand what to expect and prevents constant company becoming the only routine they can manage

Working from home does not mean constant entertainment

Many comfortable dogs spend a substantial part of the working day resting.

That is normal.

You do not need to provide:

a different puzzle every hour
constant games
repeated training sessions
snacks during every video call
attention whenever your dog approaches
a long walk every time they appear restless

Too much activity can make it harder for some dogs to settle.

The aim is to create a balanced day containing:

suitable movement
sniffing
toileting
food
water
social contact
short activities
uninterrupted rest

A dog sleeping quietly while you work is not necessarily bored.

Keep a predictable routine

Dogs often cope better when daily events are reasonably predictable.

Your routine does not need to run to the exact minute, but your dog should gradually understand when they can expect:

breakfast
a walk
toilet breaks
quiet work periods
interaction
an evening meal
rest

Dogs Trust advises keeping feeding and walking times similar across working arrangements, including hybrid schedules.

A predictable routine can reduce the likelihood that your dog will repeatedly check whether something exciting is about to happen.

However, avoid making the schedule so rigid that a ten-minute delay causes your dog to become distressed.

A little normal variation can help the routine remain practical.

Begin with a suitable morning walk

A morning outing can help your dog:

toilet
move comfortably
investigate smells
explore
spend time with you
return home ready to settle

This does not mean trying to exhaust them before opening your laptop.

Repeated ball throwing, intense running or highly exciting play may leave some dogs more alert rather than ready to sleep.

A calmer walk may include:

a familiar route
time to sniff
comfortable movement
opportunities to toilet
a pace suited to the dog
enough time to return home without rushing

Your dog’s needs will depend on their age, health, mobility, confidence and normal routine.

My one-to-one solo dog walks in Finchley and Muswell Hill are tailored to the individual dog rather than using the same pace and route as a group.

Allow time to settle after the walk

Do not rush directly from an energetic outing into a work meeting.

Once home:

Remove wet coats or equipment.
Check paws where necessary.
Offer fresh water.
Allow your dog to cool down.
Provide access to their resting place.
Give them a few minutes to settle.

A dog who has only just returned may still be excited, thirsty or physically warm.

Building a short settling period into your morning can make the beginning of the working day easier for both of you.

Create a comfortable resting place

Your dog needs somewhere they can sleep without being repeatedly disturbed.

A suitable resting place should be:

comfortable
dry
away from draughts
away from direct heat
large enough to change position
free from trailing wires
somewhere the dog already knows
accessible without difficult jumping
positioned away from the busiest walkway

Some dogs choose to sleep beside the desk.

Others settle better a short distance away.

You can use:

a familiar bed
a folded blanket
an open crate
a quiet corner
a separate dog-safe room
a resting area behind a stair gate

A crate should remain an optional, positively introduced resting space rather than somewhere used to confine a dog because you have a meeting.

Read Crate Training a Dog or Puppy: A Calm, Positive Guide.

Teach your dog that your desk means quiet time

Your dog may initially approach whenever you:

answer the telephone
begin typing
move your chair
speak during a meeting
open a notebook
prepare a drink

You can help them learn a calmer routine.

Before beginning work:

Make sure immediate needs have been met.
Guide your dog towards their bed.
Reward calm settling.
begin work for a short period.
Take a planned break.
Repeat consistently.

You do not need to repeatedly command your dog to stay on the bed.

The aim is to help resting become worthwhile and predictable.

Reward-based training is preferable to shouting, pushing the dog away or using punishment. The RSPCA recommends positive, reward-based methods when teaching dogs to cope calmly at home. (RSPCA)

Do not respond to every request immediately

Dogs learn from what happens after their behaviour.

When nudging your hand always produces attention, or barking always starts a game, the behaviour is likely to continue.

Before responding, ask whether your dog:

needs the toilet
needs water
is uncomfortable
is frightened
is in pain
has had appropriate interaction
may simply be asking because the behaviour has worked before

Meet genuine needs promptly.

When the dog is safe and comfortable, wait for a calmer moment before offering attention.

This is different from deliberately ignoring distress.

A frightened, unwell or panicking dog needs support and investigation, not a lesson in patience.

Plan work breaks before your dog demands them

Short, planned breaks can help prevent the dog from repeatedly interrupting you.

A break might include:

a toilet opportunity
refilling water
two minutes of calm training
a brief garden sniff
gentle interaction
checking the dog’s comfort
preparing for a lunchtime walk

The break does not need to become a long game.

Afterwards, help your dog return to their routine of resting.

For many people, linking dog-care breaks to normal work breaks makes the day easier to manage.

Provide enough toilet opportunities

Working from home can make it easy to lose track of time.

Your dog’s needs continue even when you are busy.

Consider:

age
health
medication
bladder and bowel control
access to the garden
whether the dog is drinking more
when they last ate
whether they have recently woken

Puppies, senior dogs, and dogs with health conditions may need more frequent opportunities than healthy adult dogs.

Do not restrict water to reduce interruptions.

A sudden change in thirst, urination or toileting behaviour should be discussed with your veterinary practice.

Use calm enrichment rather than constant excitement

Appropriate enrichment can help some dogs settle when you need to concentrate.

Options may include:

part of the normal meal in a familiar food toy
an easy puzzle the dog already understands
a safe scatter of normal food
a familiar slow feeder
a brief scent search before the meeting
a previously tested toy
quiet chewing where individually suitable and supervised
calm background sound

Food used during enrichment still contributes to the dog’s daily intake.

Set aside part of their normal food rather than continually adding extra treats.

My Dog Enrichment Guide contains practical activities that can be introduced first when you are able to supervise.

Test activities before using them during meetings

Do not introduce a brand-new chew or complicated puzzle immediately before a long call.

Watch your dog use it first.

Check whether they:

become frustrated
bark at the activity
bite off pieces
swallow parts
guard it
carry it somewhere unsafe
become overexcited
lose interest
trap a paw or jaw
destroy it quickly

No toy or chew is safe for every dog.

Remove anything damaged.

Read Dog Enrichment Safety: When a Brain Game Becomes Frustrating.

Be careful with long-lasting chews

The original version of this page recommended leaving antlers, horns, ears and other long-lasting chews available during work.

That general recommendation has been removed.

Potential concerns include:

damaged teeth
choking
swallowing large pieces
digestive upset
high calorie intake
guarding
becoming stuck
incompatibility with a medical diet

A chew should be suitable for the individual dog and introduced while you can observe them.

Do not assume that “natural” means safe.

Do not leave an unfamiliar chew simply because you need an uninterrupted meeting.

Avoid feeding your dog through the entire day

Working beside the kitchen can lead to repeated extras.

These may include:

training treats
pieces of lunch
food toys
chews
biscuits during meetings
rewards for going to bed
food offered by other family members

Each item may look small, but together they can add a substantial amount.

Set aside a measured daily treat allowance.

Make sure everyone in the household knows what has already been given.

A dog who asks for food during every call may have learned that meetings predict snacks.

Gradually reward longer periods of calm rather than continually delivering food.

Protect your home workspace

Dogs can investigate office equipment when they are bored, excited or trying to reach you.

Secure:

electrical cables
extension leads
chargers
batteries
pens
staples
paper clips
medication
headphones
food
hot drinks
rubbish bins
printer cartridges
plastic packaging
small computer accessories

Move hot drinks away from the edge of the desk.

Do not leave a laptop cable running across a walkway where the dog or person could trip.

Close bags containing sweets, medication or chewing gum. Sugar-free gum may contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs.

Manage deliveries and the doorbell

Home working often brings deliveries, visitors and repeated door activity.

A dog who reacts to the doorbell may become increasingly alert throughout the day.

Practical management may include:

using a stair gate
closing an internal door
keeping the lead nearby
asking delivery drivers to leave parcels outside
using a sign requesting that people do not knock
moving the dog away before opening the door
practising calm behaviour at quieter times
preventing access to the front door

Do not open the door while your dog is loose and highly excited.

For nervous or reactive dogs, create enough distance before interacting with the visitor.

Do not allow constant window watching

A desk beside a front window may encourage your dog to monitor:

pedestrians
delivery workers
dogs
cats
vehicles
children
neighbours

Occasional watching may not be a problem.

Repeated barking, lunging or patrolling can make it difficult for the dog to rest.

You may need to:

move the bed
use a visual screen
close part of the curtain
apply removable window film
create a resting place away from the view
use gentle background sound

The aim is not to isolate your dog from normal life.

It is to prevent them from spending the whole day on alert.

Let your dog spend some time away from you

Working at home can unintentionally teach a dog that they are never separated from you.

Include manageable periods when they:

rest in another part of the room
settle behind a stair gate
remain downstairs while you briefly go upstairs
stay with another family member
use the garden without you standing beside them
relax while you close the office door briefly
remain home during a short local errand

Build this gradually.

Dogs Trust recommends including time apart in the daily routine, even while the owner is at home, to help dogs remain comfortable with ordinary separation.

Practise short absences before your office days

Do not wait until your first full office day to discover that your dog cannot cope.

Begin with short, successful absences.

You might:

Leave the room briefly.
Close an internal door for a moment.
Step outside the front door.
Return before the dog becomes worried.
Increase the time gradually.
Use a camera to observe what happens.
Arrange suitable care before attempting a longer absence.

The dog should remain relaxed, not merely quiet.

Possible signs of difficulty include:

panting
pacing
drooling
whining
barking
scratching the door
refusing food
toileting
repeatedly checking exits
attempting to escape

Separation-related distress occurs when a dog struggles specifically with being left. Some dogs show subtle signs that owners only discover when they record them.

Read How to Prepare Your Dog for Separation.

Hybrid working needs a consistent care plan

Hybrid working can create a very different routine on different days.

For example:

Monday: everyone is home
Tuesday: the dog is alone for several hours
Wednesday: someone works from home
Thursday: a dog walker arrives
Friday: the household finishes early

Some dogs manage this variation well.

Others find the change difficult.

Try to keep key parts of the routine reasonably consistent:

morning feeding
morning walk
rest periods
toilet opportunities
lunchtime care
evening routine

Arrange professional help before office days become unmanageable.

Do not assume that your dog can suddenly cope simply because they managed before you began working from home.

Use a camera to understand what happens

A pet camera can help you see whether your dog:

settles
sleeps
eats
paces
barks
checks doors
watches windows
becomes distressed
reacts to outside noise

Record the beginning of the absence rather than checking only after the dog appears to be asleep.

A camera provides information.

It does not provide:

a toilet break
company
exercise
veterinary care
behaviour treatment
emergency access

Avoid repeatedly speaking through the camera if hearing your voice makes the dog search for you or become more agitated.

Working from home with a puppy

A puppy requires more than a bed beside your desk.

They need:

frequent toilet breaks
regular meals
supervised exploration
safe social experiences
short training sessions
gradual alone-time practice
considerable sleep
protection from household hazards

Puppies often become increasingly mouthy and frantic when they are overtired.

They may need help settling rather than another game.

Use a puppy pen, stair gate or safe room where appropriate, but do not expect a puppy to remain confined throughout the working day.

My Puppy Visits in Finchley can provide a toilet opportunity, feeding where agreed and calm company when work prevents you giving the puppy the support they need.

Working from home with a rescue dog

A newly adopted dog may follow you closely because everything around them is unfamiliar.

They may be learning:

who you are
where they should sleep
which sounds are normal
how doors work
when food appears
whether the home is safe
what happens when you move away

Do not force independence immediately.

At the same time, avoid spending every moment together and then following it with a long absence.

Build short, manageable periods apart while the dog is still settling.

A rescue dog may have no previous experience of living in a home, being left alone or resting while someone works nearby.

My Rescue Dog Support in Finchley focuses on calm, predictable and individual care.

Working from home with a senior dog

Older dogs may need:

more frequent toilet breaks
easier access to water
non-slip flooring
a comfortable supportive bed
shorter walks
medication at particular times
help moving between levels
a quieter resting place

Changes in behaviour should not automatically be blamed on ageing.

Contact your vet when a previously settled older dog begins:

pacing
becoming confused
toileting indoors
struggling to rise
vocalising
waking repeatedly
drinking more
becoming unusually clingy
showing signs of pain

A midday visit or shorter solo walk may be more appropriate than expecting an older dog to follow the same routine they managed when younger.

Multi-dog households

Dogs living together may have different needs on working days.

One dog may want to sleep beside the desk while another becomes restless.

They may also:

compete for food toys
block access to beds
react when one dog barks
need different toilet breaks
require separate medication
guard the workspace or owner

Provide enough resting places.

Feed high-value items separately where necessary.

Do not assume that dogs will automatically entertain each other while you work.

Having another dog present does not necessarily prevent separation-related distress because the dog may be worried specifically about the absence of a person.

The garden does not replace a walk

Access to a garden can help with toileting and provide a brief change of environment.

It does not automatically provide:

varied smells
comfortable movement
exploration
social information
a change of route
individual interaction

Some dogs stand at the back door waiting to come inside.

Others become occupied with barking at neighbours or patrolling the fence.

Use the garden as part of the routine rather than assuming the dog has exercised.

When a lunchtime walk may help

A lunchtime walk can:

provide a toilet opportunity
add movement
offer time to sniff
break up the day
reduce pressure on the owner’s schedule
help some dogs settle during the afternoon

The walk should suit the individual dog.

It should not automatically involve:

group transport
a van
a busy park
fast-paced exercise
interaction with unfamiliar dogs
the same route for every dog

My solo walks begin and end at the client’s home.

I walk one household at a time, locally and on foot, without vans, cars or group collection rounds.

This can suit dogs who are:

nervous
reactive
older
recovering confidence
uncomfortable in groups
happier following their normal local routine

When you need more than a dog walker

A dog walker can help meet practical daytime needs.

A walk does not treat:

severe separation-related distress
panic
self-injury
persistent escape attempts
medical problems
sudden behavioural changes

Speak to your vet if your dog becomes distressed, begins to behave differently, or cannot cope with even brief separation.

Your vet can rule out medical causes and may recommend a properly qualified clinical animal behaviourist such as PetShrink

The RSPCA advises seeking professional support for established separation-related behaviour rather than punishing the dog or assuming the behaviour is spiteful.

A sample working-from-home routine

This is an example rather than a fixed timetable.

Before work

Breakfast where appropriate
Toilet opportunity
Calm walk
Fresh water
Time to settle

First work period

Dog rests in a familiar place
No constant interaction
Familiar enrichment where appropriate

Mid-morning

Brief toilet opportunity
Water check
A few minutes of calm interaction

Lunchtime

Suitable walk or sniffing break
Feeding where part of the normal routine
Time to settle afterwards

Afternoon

Another quiet work period
Short independence exercise
Brief toilet opportunity
Calm activity where appropriate

After work

Clear end to the workday
Suitable walk, play or interaction
Normal evening feeding routine
Rest

Adapt this around your dog’s age, health and normal needs.

A puppy or older dog may require considerably more frequent breaks.

Common working-from-home mistakes

Avoid:

giving attention every time your dog asks
feeding throughout the day
trying to exhaust the dog before work
providing constant entertainment
allowing no uninterrupted sleep
never leaving the house
introducing new chews during long meetings
relying entirely on the garden
allowing repeated window barking
ignoring toilet needs
expecting a puppy to follow an adult routine
moving from constant company to a full office day
assuming destructive behaviour is spite
using punishment for separation-related distress

The aim is not to make your dog invisible during working hours.

It is to help them become comfortable with a realistic household routine.

Frequently asked questions

Should I ignore my dog while working from home?

No.

Meet their genuine physical, emotional and toileting needs.

However, you do not need to respond immediately to every request for attention. Plan breaks and reward calm behaviour.

How often should I take a break for my dog?

This depends on age, health, toilet needs and routine.

Puppies, older dogs, and dogs taking certain medications may need more frequent opportunities than healthy adult dogs.

Is my dog bored if they sleep while I work?

Not necessarily.

A comfortable dog may spend much of the working day resting. Consider their complete routine rather than trying to fill every quiet period.

Should I give my dog a chew during meetings?

Only when the item is suitable for your dog and has already been used safely under supervision.

Do not leave unfamiliar antlers, horns, bones or other hard chews simply because you need an uninterrupted call.

Should my dog have their bed beside my desk?

They can, provided the location is safe and comfortable.

It is also helpful for the dog to learn that they can settle at a little distance from you.

How do I stop my dog interrupting video calls?

Meet their needs before the call, practise settling, use a familiar resting place and provide calm enrichment where appropriate.

Build the routine during short calls before expecting the dog to manage a long meeting.

Should I close my dog in another room?

Only after they have been introduced to the space gradually and can remain comfortable.

Do not suddenly isolate or confine a worried dog.

A stair gate may provide a gentler first stage.

Will working from home cause separation anxiety?

Working from home does not automatically cause separation-related problems.

However, a dog who never experiences manageable time apart may struggle when the routine changes. Include gradual independence practice while you are still at home. (Dogs Trust)

Can a dog walker help on home-working days?

Yes.

A solo walk can provide a toilet opportunity, movement, sniffing and a predictable break while you concentrate on work.

What if my dog panics when I leave?

Contact your vet.

Panting, pacing, drooling, continuous vocalising, escape attempts, toileting and refusing food can all indicate separation-related distress. Use a camera to gather information and seek qualified support.

Working from home should still include time apart

Working from home can provide valuable flexibility.

You can notice changes in your dog, offer suitable breaks and avoid leaving them for an unnecessarily long day.

However, your dog should also learn that they can rest while you are busy and cope with manageable periods when you are not immediately beside them.

Create a predictable routine.

Provide suitable walks and toilet breaks.

Protect sleep.

Use enrichment thoughtfully.

Practise short separations before your routine changes.

When your workload prevents you meeting your dog’s needs, arrange appropriate help rather than expecting them to wait indefinitely.

For advice about real absences, read Leaving Your Dog Home Alone.

For gradual independence training, read Preparing Your Dog for Separation.

Behaviour and veterinary note

This guide provides general dog-care and training information.

It does not diagnose separation-related anxiety, pain, illness or another behavioural or medical condition.

Contact your veterinary practice if your dog suddenly changes behaviour, appears unwell, shows signs of pain, or becomes distressed when left. Your vet may recommend support from a suitably qualified clinical animal behaviourist.