First-Time Rabbit Owner Guide: What You Need to Know Before Getting Rabbits

Thinking of getting your first rabbits?

Perhaps you’ve seen a pair waiting for adoption, your children have been asking for a pet, or you simply like the idea of having rabbits around the house or garden.

Rabbits can make wonderful companions. They’re intelligent, curious, sociable and often full of character.

But they’re not necessarily easy pets.

They need much more space than many people expect, suitable companionship, the right food, regular veterinary care and daily attention. They’re also a long-term commitment.

I’m Del, and I’ve been providing professional pet care around Finchley and North London since 2011, including caring for rabbits and other small animals in their own homes.

This guide covers the practical things I’d encourage you to consider before bringing your first rabbits home, what you really need to buy and how to help them settle.

If you’re still deciding which animal would suit your household, start with my Your First Pet guide.

1. Are rabbits good pets for first-time owners?

Yes, rabbits can be excellent pets for the right household.

They’re fascinating to watch, can learn routines, enjoy exploring their surroundings and often develop close relationships with the people caring for them.

However, they are sometimes marketed as inexpensive, low-maintenance pets for children.

That isn’t a realistic picture of rabbit ownership.

Rabbits need:

• A compatible rabbit companion, unless a specialist recommends otherwise.
• Enough space to run, stretch, jump and explore.
• Unlimited access to suitable hay or grass.
• Appropriate fresh food and clean water.
• Opportunities to dig, forage, hide and play.
• Daily health and welfare checks.
• Veterinary care from a practice experienced with rabbits.
• A calm environment where they can make choices.

Rabbits are also prey animals. Many dislike being lifted or restrained, even when they’re comfortable around people.

The RSPCA’s rabbit care guidance explains why rabbits have more complex needs than their reputation sometimes suggests.

You can also read my guide on whether you’re ready for a rabbit

Are rabbits suitable pets for children?

Rabbits can be part of family life, but adults must take responsibility for their care.

Young children may want to cuddle or carry a rabbit. Unfortunately, being picked up can frighten an animal whose instinct is to stay close to the ground.

A much better introduction is to sit quietly nearby and let the rabbit approach when it feels comfortable.

Children can help prepare food, replenish hay, make enrichment activities and learn how to recognise when an animal wants space.

I would never recommend getting rabbits on the assumption that a child will manage every aspect of their care independently.

2. Rabbits need other rabbits

One of the most important things for a first-time owner to understand is that rabbits are naturally social animals.

Human attention is valuable, but it does not normally replace companionship from another compatible rabbit.

The usual recommendation is to keep rabbits in suitable bonded pairs or groups.

A neutered male and neutered female can often make a good pairing, although individual compatibility matters.

If you’re adopting, consider looking for an established bonded pair from a reputable rescue organisation.

This can reduce the uncertainty of introducing unfamiliar rabbits yourself.

Can you keep one rabbit?

A rabbit should not normally live alone unless a vet or qualified rabbit behaviour professional supports a specific welfare need.

Some rabbits need specialist support when finding a suitable companion.

If you already have a single rabbit, don’t simply place another rabbit into its enclosure and hope they’ll get along.

Bonding needs preparation and careful management. Rabbits can seriously injure each other if introductions go badly.

You can find more detailed advice in the RSPCA guide to rabbit companionship and bonding.

Can rabbits live with guinea pigs?

Rabbits and guinea pigs should not be housed together as substitute companions.

They have different communication styles, nutritional requirements and physical characteristics. A rabbit can accidentally injure a guinea pig.

Each species needs suitable companions of its own kind.

3. How much space do rabbits need?

This is where many first-time owners underestimate what is involved.

A traditional small rabbit hutch is not suitable as a rabbit’s entire living accommodation.

According to the Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund (RWAF), the recommended minimum continuous living space for two average-sized rabbits is:

3 metres long × 2 metres wide × 1 metre high.

That’s six square metres of accessible floor space in one continuous area.

Larger accommodation is always preferable, particularly for bigger or more active rabbits.

The full area must be available throughout the day and night, not just during supervised exercise sessions.

A raised upper floor, small attached box or occasional run in the garden doesn’t replace the required continuous ground space.

For a clear explanation, see the RWAF rabbit space recommendations.

Why does the length matter?

Rabbits need room to run, not just take two or three hops.

They should also be able to stretch out, stand upright, explore, forage and move away from each other when they want some quiet time.

A suitable environment should include:

• A sheltered sleeping area.
• More than one hiding place, ideally with two exits.
• Separate feeding and resting areas.
• Suitable toilet facilities.
• Space for running and jumping.
• Enrichment and opportunities to dig.
• Non-slip flooring.
• Protection from unsuitable temperatures and predators.

Think of a rabbit’s accommodation as a living environment, not a cage.

4. Indoor or outdoor rabbits: which is better?

Rabbits can live successfully indoors or outdoors, as long as their physical and behavioural needs are met.

Neither arrangement automatically guarantees better welfare.

Keeping rabbits indoors

Indoor rabbits can become very much part of everyday household life.

They may learn to use litter trays, recognise feeding routines and explore their surroundings when it’s safe.

However, you’ll need to rabbit-proof your home.

Common hazards include:

• Electrical cables.
• Houseplants that may be toxic.
• Cleaning chemicals.
• Small objects that could be swallowed.
• Unprotected stairs and unsuitable gaps.
• Slippery floors.
• Furniture or flooring that rabbits may chew.

You also need to think about other household pets.

If you have dogs or cats, provide secure separation and never assume that friendly behaviour guarantees safety.

Even a calm dog can frighten or accidentally injure a rabbit.

The RWAF indoor rabbit housing guide has useful examples of appropriate setups.

Keeping rabbits outdoors

Outdoor accommodation must provide enough space and protection year-round.

Consider:

• Secure, predator-resistant construction.
• Weatherproof sleeping areas.
• Good ventilation without cold draughts.
• Shade during warm weather.
• Protection from rain and damp.
• Suitable flooring and digging opportunities.
• Fresh water that won’t freeze in winter.
• Safe access to the full living area at all times.

A hutch can provide shelter as part of a larger enclosure, but it should never be the rabbit’s only accommodation.

Make sure fences, doors, mesh, and roofs suit the risks in your garden.

See the RWAF outdoor rabbit housing guide before choosing an enclosure.

5. What should rabbits eat?

Food is one of the most important parts of rabbit care.

Rabbits have a specialised digestive system that relies on a consistent supply of fibre.

The majority of a healthy adult rabbit’s diet should come from good-quality hay or suitable grass.

The RSPCA provides a useful general guide:

Food	Approximate proportion
Hay and grass	85%
Suitable leafy greens	10%
Plain rabbit nuggets or pellets	5%
Suitable treats	Small occasional amounts

These are general dietary proportions, not exact portion sizes for every rabbit. Young, pregnant, elderly or unwell rabbits may require different advice.

Hay is essential

Your rabbits should always have unlimited access to suitable, fresh, good-quality hay.

It supports normal digestion, encourages natural foraging and helps maintain dental health.

Check that the hay smells fresh, is dry, and is free from visible mould.

Rabbits often enjoy hay in several different locations.

For example, you can provide hay near a litter tray, in a suitable rack and in a foraging area.

Fresh vegetables and herbs

Suitable leafy foods can include romaine lettuce, spring greens, coriander, basil, rocket and other rabbit-safe greens.

Introduce new foods gradually.

Not every vegetable is appropriate, and some plants can be poisonous.

Carrots and fruit should be occasional treats, not daily staples.

Pellets and nuggets

Choose a suitable, nutritionally balanced rabbit nugget rather than colourful muesli-style food.

Feeding excessive quantities of nuggets can mean rabbits eat less hay, which may contribute to health problems.

Ask your vet for advice about portions suited to your rabbits’ age, weight and health.

Water

Fresh drinking water must always be available.

A heavy ceramic bowl is often practical, although some rabbits are accustomed to bottles.

Whatever you use, check it regularly, clean it daily and make sure every rabbit can drink.

Outdoor owners need to be especially careful about freezing water in winter and overheating in summer.

For more detail, read the RSPCA guide to feeding rabbits.

Important: Never suddenly replace an established rabbit’s diet. Ask your vet about any significant dietary change, and introduce suitable changes gradually.

6. Veterinary care, vaccinations and neutering

Before bringing rabbits home, find a veterinary practice with experience treating them.

Not every veterinary practice has the same level of rabbit expertise.

Ask whether the practice routinely treats rabbits, provides dental examinations, offers rabbit neutering and has suitable emergency arrangements.

Rabbit vaccinations in the UK

Pet rabbits need protection against serious infectious diseases, including:

• Myxomatosis.
• Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease type 1 (RVHD1).
• Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease type 2 (RVHD2).

Vaccination is important for indoor and outdoor rabbits.

Your vet should confirm the appropriate vaccines and current schedule, including protection against circulating variants.

The PDSA rabbit vaccination guidance explains the diseases and the importance of keeping vaccinations up to date.

Neutering

Neutering can help prevent unwanted breeding and may make compatible companionship and bonding easier.

It also has important health benefits, particularly for female rabbits.

Discuss timing, suitability, anaesthesia and recovery with an experienced rabbit vet.

Routine veterinary checks

Ask your vet about:

• Dental health.
• Body condition and weight.
• Vaccinations.
• Neutering.
• Parasite concerns.
• Nail care.
• Appropriate grooming.
• Signs of pain or illness.

Rabbit healthcare needs to be part of your regular budget, not something you only consider when a problem develops.

7. How much does it cost to keep rabbits?

One of the biggest mistakes new owners can make is budgeting for the adoption fee and a few supplies without considering ongoing costs.

Rabbits may live for 8–12 years, sometimes longer.

Because rabbits usually need compatible companionship, plan for at least two animals.

Initial expenses

Your starting budget may need to cover:

• Adoption fees for a bonded pair.
• Suitable permanent accommodation.
• Safe sleeping shelters.
• Secure outdoor protection or indoor rabbit-proofing.
• Litter trays and bedding.
• Hay and feeding equipment.
• A suitable carrier.
• Enrichment and hiding places.
• Veterinary registration and initial health care.
• Vaccinations and neutering where not already completed.

Ongoing expenses

You’ll also need to budget for:

• Hay and fresh food.
• Rabbit nuggets.
• Litter and cleaning materials.
• Routine veterinary visits.
• Vaccination boosters.
• Insurance or emergency savings.
• Repairs and replacement equipment.
• Holiday care.

Veterinary bills can be substantial, especially for emergency care or dental treatment.

I wouldn’t give you a single figure that covers every pair of rabbits. Costs vary depending on their health, where you live and what equipment you already own.

The important thing is to prepare for the ongoing costs before adopting.

Should you insure rabbits?

Rabbit insurance is worth researching, particularly because specialist veterinary treatment can be expensive.

Compare policies carefully.

Look at exclusions, dental cover, annual limits, excesses, waiting periods and whether long-term conditions remain covered.

Insurance is not a substitute for suitable everyday care, but it can help manage unexpected veterinary bills.

8. Essential equipment for first-time rabbit owners

You don’t need every rabbit accessory advertised online.

I would prioritise items that genuinely support welfare, safety, hygiene and natural behaviour.

Equipment	My recommendation
Large suitable enclosure	Essential. Accommodation must meet welfare space requirements
Secure shelters and hiding places	Essential. Provide choice and safe resting places
Unlimited suitable hay	Essential. Always available
Water bowls	Essential. Heavy, stable and easy to clean
Litter trays	Very useful, ideally with suitable non-clumping litter
Rabbit-safe carrier	Essential for veterinary visits and emergencies
Non-slip flooring	Important for safe movement
Tunnels and foraging activities	Useful enrichment
Digging box	Useful for natural behaviour
Grooming equipment	Depends on coat type and veterinary advice
Small decorative cage	Not suitable as permanent accommodation
Exercise ball	Avoid. It prevents normal rabbit movement and escape behaviour

Choosing rabbit accommodation

Start by measuring the space available.

Don’t choose a small enclosure simply because it looks attractive, fits neatly against a fence or comes with several accessories.

The permanent living area matters far more than the marketing description.

Choosing enrichment toys

Rabbits don’t need expensive toys to enjoy themselves.

Cardboard tunnels, suitable untreated cardboard boxes, safe foraging activities and digging areas can provide useful enrichment.

Always check that materials are rabbit-safe and remove damaged objects that may present a risk.

Some rabbits enjoy pushing objects around, exploring tunnels or looking for food scattered through hay.

The best enrichment gives them opportunities to choose what they want to do.

Items I would avoid

I’d be cautious about:

• Tiny rabbit cages sold as complete homes.
• Exercise balls.
• Unsuitable harnesses used to force exercise.
• Sweet treat sticks and sugary snacks.
• Colourful muesli-style feeds.
• Chew products with unsafe coatings or small detachable parts.
• Equipment marketed as suitable for all small animals without considering species-specific needs.

Buy equipment based on the rabbit’s needs, not the number of items included in a bundle.

9. Adopting rabbits or buying from a breeder

If you’re a first-time owner, I’d encourage you to explore rabbit rescue organisations before buying.

Rescue centres may have established bonded pairs that need homes.

Some rabbits may already be neutered and vaccinated, although you should always check the individual rescue’s arrangements.

A good rescue will want to understand your proposed accommodation, experience and ability to care for the animals.

That’s a positive sign.

Questions to ask before adopting

• Are the rabbits already bonded?
• How old are they?
• Have they been neutered?
• What vaccinations have they received?
• What food are they currently eating?
• Do they have any known health conditions?
• How do they respond to handling?
• What accommodation are they used to?
• What support is available if problems arise?

If you choose a breeder, research them carefully and check that the rabbits are healthy, appropriately housed and not being separated too early.

Avoid impulse purchases.

The right rabbit is one whose needs you can meet, not simply the one with the cutest photograph.

10. Bringing your rabbits home: the first few days

Your rabbits’ first few days should be calm and predictable.

They’re entering an unfamiliar environment, with new sights, smells, sounds and people.

Even confident rabbits may need time to settle.

Before they arrive

Prepare the entire living area in advance.

Make sure:

• Their accommodation is secure.
• Suitable hay and water are available.
• There are several hiding places.
• Flooring is safe.
• Electrical cables and hazards are inaccessible.
• Other household pets cannot reach them.
• You know which vet to contact if necessary.

If you’re adopting a bonded pair, keep them together unless a vet or rescue has advised otherwise.

On arrival

Allow the rabbits to explore their safe area at their own pace.

Avoid unnecessary handling.

Sit nearby, speak quietly and let them approach you when they’re ready.

Keep feeding arrangements familiar initially, using the food recommended by the rescue or previous owner.

Watch that both rabbits are eating, drinking and producing normal droppings.

During the first week

Gradually establish a predictable routine.

You can begin offering suitable enrichment, encouraging positive interactions and learning each rabbit’s individual behaviour.

Remember that settling isn’t a race.

One rabbit may approach you confidently while the other prefers to observe from a hiding place.

Allow both to make their own choices.

11. Understanding rabbit behaviour and body language

Learning to recognise normal rabbit behaviour makes everyday care much easier.

Rabbits communicate through body posture, movement, facial expression and changes in their usual routines.

Signs a rabbit may be comfortable

You might notice:

• Relaxed resting positions.
• Exploring confidently.
• Grooming.
• Eating and foraging normally.
• Stretching out.
• Playful jumps known as binkies.
• Comfortable interaction with a bonded companion.

No single behaviour tells you everything. Look at the whole situation and what is normal for that particular rabbit.

Signs of worry or stress

A frightened rabbit may:

• Freeze.
• Hide.
• Flatten its body.
• Become unusually alert.
• Thump.
• Attempt to escape.
• Avoid interaction.

Pain and illness can also cause behavioural changes.

If a normally active rabbit suddenly becomes withdrawn, stops eating or behaves unusually, don’t assume it’s simply having a quiet day.

Should you pick rabbits up?

Keep handling to what is necessary for their care.

Many rabbits prefer interaction at ground level.

Avoid picking them up to cuddle them.

Never lift a rabbit by its ears or scruff.

Ask your rabbit vet or rescue organisation to demonstrate safe, supported handling for essential situations.

Children should always be supervised.

12. Daily rabbit care: what should you check?

Good rabbit care is about noticing small changes before they become serious.

A daily routine doesn’t need to be complicated, but it does need to be consistent.

Morning

• Check that every rabbit is alert and behaving normally.
• Confirm that each rabbit is eating.
• Check droppings for normal quantity and appearance.
• Refresh water.
• Replenish hay.
• Offer appropriate fresh food.
• Check bedding and litter areas.
• Inspect accommodation for damage and hazards.

Evening

• Check appetite and behaviour again.
• Refresh hay and water as needed.
• Remove soiled material.
• Provide safe enrichment.
• Check that the enclosure is secure.
• Make sure every rabbit is comfortable and has access to shelter.

Weekly and regular care

Allow time for more thorough cleaning, grooming where appropriate, checking equipment, monitoring body condition and reviewing enrichment.

Your vet can show you how to carry out suitable health checks without causing unnecessary stress.

When rabbit health becomes an emergency

A rabbit that stops eating or stops producing normal droppings needs immediate veterinary advice. Do not wait until the next morning.

Rabbits are vulnerable to serious digestive problems, including gastrointestinal stasis.

Other urgent warning signs can include:

• Severe lethargy or collapse.
• Difficulty breathing.
• A swollen or painful-looking abdomen.
• Signs of severe pain.
• Serious injury.
• Heatstroke symptoms.
• Sudden inability to move normally.

Contact your vet or emergency veterinary service immediately.

Do not attempt home remedies or force-feed a rabbit unless a vet has specifically instructed you to do so. Some conditions, including obstruction, make inappropriate treatment dangerous.

The PDSA guidance on rabbits not eating explains why reduced appetite must be taken seriously.

13. What happens when you go on holiday?

Before adopting rabbits, it’s worth thinking about what will happen when you’re away from home.

Rabbits need daily care and appropriate welfare checks.

Leaving extra hay and filling the water bowl before a weekend away isn’t a suitable care arrangement.

Water containers can tip over or become blocked. Food intake can change. Illness can develop quickly, and problems aren’t always obvious from a distance.

A responsible carer should understand:

• Your rabbits’ normal feeding routine.
• How to check their appetite and droppings.
• Their usual behaviour.
• Accommodation security.
• Temperature and weather precautions.
• Cleaning arrangements.
• The importance of keeping bonded rabbits together.
• Emergency veterinary contacts.

In Finchley, Muswell Hill and surrounding areas, I offer small-animal home visits for rabbits and other suitable pets.

I arrange visits based on each animal’s needs and the agreed care routine.

My Welcome Pack explains how I organise pet care, meet-and-greets, emergency arrangements and the information I need before a booking.

If you live elsewhere in the UK, look for an experienced, insured pet sitter who understands rabbit welfare and can provide appropriate daily visits.

14. First-time rabbit owner checklist

Before bringing rabbits home, make sure you can answer yes to the following questions.

Housing and companionship

• I have arranged suitable companionship, ideally an established bonded pair.
• The permanent accommodation meets appropriate space recommendations.
• The rabbits can access their full living space day and night.
• There are secure sleeping areas and hiding places.
• The environment is protected from weather, predators and household hazards.

Food and equipment

• I have a supply of suitable hay.
• I understand the basics of an appropriate rabbit diet.
• Fresh water will always be available.
• I have suitable litter trays, shelters and enrichment.
• I have a safe carrier for veterinary visits.

Health and finances

• I have identified a rabbit-experienced veterinary practice.
• I understand the vaccination requirements.
• I have checked neutering arrangements.
• I have budgeted for regular and emergency care.
• I know what to do if a rabbit stops eating.

Everyday care

• An adult is responsible for the rabbits’ welfare.
• Everyone in the household understands how to handle them properly.
• I can provide daily feeding, cleaning and welfare checks.
• I have made arrangements for holidays and emergencies.
• I am prepared for a commitment that may last well over a decade.

If you’re unsure about several of these points, it may be worth delaying adoption until everything is ready.

That’s far better than rushing into a decision and finding that the rabbits’ needs are difficult to meet.

15. Frequently asked questions

Are rabbits easy pets for beginners?

Rabbits can suit dedicated first-time owners, but they’re not low-maintenance. They need significant space, companionship, a suitable diet and regular health care.

Is one rabbit enough?

Rabbits should normally live with at least one compatible rabbit companion. Living alone should generally be limited to situations a vet or qualified behaviour professional advises.

Can rabbits live indoors?

Yes. Indoor rabbits need a suitably sized permanent living area, enrichment, secure hiding places and careful rabbit-proofing.

Is a hutch enough for rabbits?

No. A small hutch is not suitable as complete accommodation. Rabbits need a large continuous living area with room for exercise and normal behaviour.

How long do pet rabbits live?

Many rabbits live for approximately 8–12 years, sometimes longer. Suitable housing, diet, veterinary care and companionship are important throughout their lives.

Can rabbits be left alone overnight?

Rabbits need daily welfare checks and regular care. If you’re away overnight, arrange suitable care rather than assuming that full food and water containers are sufficient.

Do indoor rabbits need vaccinations?

Yes. Indoor rabbits can still catch serious infections. Ask your vet about the current UK vaccination schedule.

Can dogs and rabbits live in the same home?

They can live in the same household if you maintain suitable secure separation and welfare arrangements. Never assume a dog is safe around rabbits simply because it appears calm or friendly.

16. Related guides and useful resources

If you’re preparing for a new pet, these guides may help:

• Your First Pet: A Practical Guide for New Pet Owners
• Rabbit holiday care
• Dog and Pet Care Guides
• Small Animal Care in Finchley
• Finchley Dog Walker Welcome Pack

For detailed rabbit welfare advice, I also recommend:

• Rabbit Welfare Association & Fund
• RSPCA rabbit care and welfare
• PDSA rabbit health and veterinary advice

Final thoughts: Is a rabbit right for you?

Rabbits can be rewarding companions, but getting them shouldn’t be an impulse decision.

The most important purchases aren’t the toys or colourful accessories. They’re the essentials that give your rabbits the right environment, good nutrition, companionship and appropriate veterinary care.

Take time to understand what they need, prepare your home properly and consider adopting an existing bonded pair.

And if you’re in Finchley or Muswell Hill and need help with rabbit care while you’re away, you’re welcome to read about my small-animal care service.

I’m always happy to discuss whether the service suits your pets and their established routine.

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About the author

I’m Del, the owner of Finchley Dog Walker. I’ve provided professional dog walking and in-home pet care around Finchley and North London since 2011. My work includes caring for rabbits and other small animals in their own homes, with an emphasis on familiar routines, careful observation and individual care.

Veterinary disclaimer: This article provides general educational information and is not a substitute for advice from a veterinary professional experienced with rabbits. Contact your vet promptly whenever you have concerns about your rabbit’s health.

Published October 2026

Affiliate disclosure: Some related equipment guides on this website may contain affiliate links. If you buy through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Recommendations are based on suitability and welfare, not commission.