How to Train a Dog With Treats: Using Food Rewards Properly

Updated August 2026

Treats can be one of the easiest and most useful tools for dog training.

They are quick to deliver, easy to carry and valuable to many dogs.

But successful treat training is not simply about waving a piece of chicken in front of your dog’s nose.

The timing matters.

The size of the treat matters.

The difficulty of the exercise matters.

And most importantly, the food needs to be something your dog actually values in that particular situation.

I use small food rewards regularly during one-to-one walks around Finchley, whether I am reinforcing a check-in, rewarding a loose lead, practising recall foundations or helping a dog move calmly away from a distraction.

This guide is specifically about using food rewards effectively.

For the bigger picture, including toys, play, praise, sniffing and environmental rewards, read my Training Rewards for Dogs guide.

You can also explore the complete Dog Training Hub.

Why are treats useful for dog training?

Dogs repeat behaviours that produce worthwhile consequences.

If your dog sits and immediately receives something they enjoy, sitting is more likely to happen again.

The same principle can be used for:

• recall
• loose-lead walking
• checking in
• calm greetings
• settling
• waiting
• moving away from distractions
• learning new everyday skills

The Dogs Trust guide to positive reinforcement training recommends reward-based training and explains that food can be particularly useful because it is easy to deliver quickly.

The RSPCA dog training guidance also recommends reward-based methods rather than fear, pain or punishment.

Food is not the only possible reward.

It is simply a very practical one.

Does every dog like training treats?

No.

Many dogs enjoy food, but not every dog values food equally.

And even a dog that loves food at home may ignore exactly the same treat when outside.

That does not necessarily mean the dog is stubborn.

Think about the situation.

Your kitchen may contain very little competition.

Outside there may be:

• other dogs
• squirrels
• people
• traffic
• interesting smells
• food on the pavement
• excitement
• worry

Suddenly that ordinary biscuit has much more competition.

The important question is not:

“Is my dog food motivated?”

It is:

“How valuable is this food to my dog in this situation?”

What makes a good dog-training treat?

For repeated training, I generally want something that is:

• safe for the individual dog
• small
• easy to swallow
• quick to deliver
• something the dog enjoys

You do not want your dog spending thirty seconds chewing every reward while you wait to continue.

For many exercises, a tiny piece is enough.

Think training reward rather than snack.

How small should training treats be?

Smaller than many owners initially expect.

During a training session, you may reward a dog dozens of times.

If each reward is a full biscuit, the calories add up quickly.

For many dogs I use very small pieces that can be swallowed quickly.

The precise size depends on the dog.

A Labrador and a Chihuahua obviously do not need identical portions.

The important thing is that your dog experiences the reward.

The treat does not need to be large to be meaningful.

Can I use my dog’s normal food?

Yes, if your dog finds it rewarding enough.

Using part of your dog’s normal daily food can work particularly well for easier exercises.

For example:

Your dog looks at you when you say their name.

A piece of their normal food may be perfectly adequate.

Your dog returns immediately from something highly exciting outdoors.

That may deserve something considerably better.

I like having different levels of reward rather than using the most exciting food for everything.

What is a high-value treat?

“High value” does not describe a particular product.

It describes how valuable that food is to your dog.

For one dog, dried fish may be irresistible.

Another may prefer chicken.

Another might work enthusiastically for their normal food.

What matters is the dog’s opinion.

Higher-value food can be particularly useful when:

• introducing a more difficult exercise
• practising outdoors
• working around distractions
• rewarding an especially good recall
• reinforcing a difficult choice
• helping maintain attention in a challenging environment

But there is no need to bring out the most exciting reward every time your dog sits in the kitchen.

Match the reward to the difficulty.

Don’t assume richer food is always better

Very rich food can also create problems.

Some dogs have sensitive stomachs.

Some need restricted diets.

Some foods are high in fat or salt.

And changing treats constantly may upset some dogs.

If your dog has allergies, digestive problems, pancreatitis, a medical condition or is on a prescribed diet, ask your vet about suitable training food.

The safest reward is one that suits both the training and the individual dog’s health.

Watch out for unsafe human foods

Not everything in your kitchen is suitable for dog training.

Chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions, garlic and products containing xylitol can all be dangerous for dogs.

Do not assume something is safe simply because humans eat it.

If you are unsure whether a food is suitable, check with your vet or a recognised veterinary source before using it.

For everyday training, commercial dog treats or suitable portions of your dog’s normal food are often the simplest options.

How many training treats can my dog have?

This is important because training can involve a lot of repetition.

The PDSA guidance on treating your dog recommends that treats should make up no more than around 10 per cent of a dog’s daily food allowance, with their normal food reduced accordingly.

You can make this easier by setting aside some of your dog’s daily food before breakfast.

That becomes your training allowance.

You then know roughly how much has been used during the day rather than discovering that three different family members have all been handing out extras.

This becomes especially useful in households where several people care for the dog.

Good timing makes treats much more useful

The dog needs to understand which behaviour earned the reward.

Imagine you are practising loose-lead walking.

The lead becomes loose.

Your dog walks beautifully beside you.

Five seconds later they pull ahead.

Then you finally reach into your pocket and give them a treat.

What exactly did you reward?

From your dog’s point of view, it may not be obvious.

Reward as close as reasonably possible to the behaviour you want.

Loose lead.

Reward.

Dog returns when called.

Reward.

Dog looks away from a distraction and back towards you.

Reward.

Good timing creates clarity.

Marker words can help with timing

Some people use a clicker.

I often find a simple marker word such as “yes” practical.

The idea is straightforward.

Your dog performs the behaviour.

You mark that exact moment.

Then the food arrives.

The marker tells your dog:

“That was the bit I wanted.”

The word itself is not the reward.

It predicts that the reward is coming.

If you use a marker, keep it consistent and follow it with the reward while your dog is learning what it means.

Keep the food out of sight

There is an important difference between a reward and a bribe.

If you show your dog chicken before every request, the chicken can become part of the cue.

Your dog may learn:

“I sit when I can see food.”

Instead, once your dog understands the exercise:

1. Ask for the behaviour.
2. Let the dog perform it.
3. Mark the correct behaviour.
4. Produce the food.

The food happens because your dog made the right choice.

You do not need to negotiate beforehand.

Why does my dog only listen when I have treats?

Usually because food has become too obvious in the training routine.

Perhaps you always hold it in your hand.

Perhaps the treat pouch appears only when you intend to train.

Perhaps your dog sees the payment before deciding whether the job is worth doing.

Start hiding the reward.

Food can stay in your pocket or treat pouch.

Give the cue.

Reward afterwards.

Also make training part of normal life rather than something that only happens during a special five-minute session.

Ask for a simple behaviour before:

• opening the door
• releasing your dog to sniff
• starting a game
• putting dinner down
• continuing along an interesting path

Food remains useful, but it stops being the only thing that predicts training.

Do I have to use treats forever?

No.

But I would not rush to stop rewarding a behaviour just because the dog has done it correctly three times.

New behaviours benefit from frequent reinforcement.

Once a behaviour becomes reliable in different situations, food can gradually become less predictable.

Sometimes food.

Sometimes praise.

Sometimes play.

Sometimes your dog earns the chance to sniff or continue exploring.

That does not mean I stop rewarding important behaviours completely.

A very good recall from something exciting is still worth recognising even in a dog that has known recall for years.

Treats and recall training

Recall is one place where I am happy to be generous.

Coming away from another dog, a squirrel or an interesting smell can be a difficult decision.

Make returning worthwhile.

One mistake owners sometimes make is calling their dog, giving them a tiny ordinary reward and immediately ending the walk.

The outside world may have been offering much more.

Whenever practical, I like to practise recalls where the dog:

comes back

gets rewarded

and is then released to explore again.

Returning does not always have to end the fun.

Treats and loose-lead walking

Food can also help reinforce the position and choices you want during lead walking.

Reward:

• a loose lead
• checking in
• turning with you
• choosing not to surge forwards
• calmly passing something distracting

But do not turn the walk into a constant stream of food.

Dogs also need opportunities to sniff and explore.

My Loose-Lead Walking Dog Training Guide explains how I combine reward-based training with an enjoyable everyday walk.

Use the environment as part of the reward too

Imagine your dog wants to sniff a particular tree.

You could drag them past it.

Or you could occasionally use the sniff as part of the training.

Your dog gives you a few steps of loose lead.

You release them to investigate the tree.

Food did not provide the reward.

The environment did.

This is why my broader Training Rewards for Dogs guide goes beyond treats.

Food is excellent.

But it is not the whole training toolbox.

Treats around distractions

A food reward that works perfectly indoors may become irrelevant outdoors.

If the environment becomes more difficult, I have two main options.

I can increase the value of the reward.

Or I can reduce the difficulty.

Often I do both.

Imagine another dog appears.

Instead of marching closer while waving chicken at your dog, create enough distance for your dog to cope.

Then reward them for:

• looking back at you
• moving with you
• changing direction
• calmly observing
• disengaging

Food works best when the dog is still capable of learning.

It should not be used to force a frightened or overwhelmed dog through a situation they cannot handle.

What if my dog won’t take treats outside?

I pay attention when this happens.

If a dog normally loves a particular food but suddenly refuses it, something has changed.

They may be:

• frightened
• too excited
• overwhelmed
• distracted
• feeling unwell
• too close to something they find difficult

For nervous dogs, refusing food can be an important clue.

I do not automatically push a tastier treat under their nose.

I may create more distance.

Move somewhere quieter.

Allow them time to sniff.

Or simply end that particular exercise.

Training should respond to the dog in front of you.

Treat training for nervous and rescue dogs

Food can be very useful for nervous dogs, but the dog should never feel pressured to approach you simply because food is involved.

If necessary, toss the food away from yourself.

Let the dog choose whether to approach.

Give them room.

Some rescue dogs may initially be too worried to eat outdoors.

That does not mean training has failed.

Safety and confidence come first.

My Rescue Dog Help in Finchley hub contains more guidance for owners of nervous and newly rehomed dogs.

What if treats make my dog frantic?

Some dogs become so excited by food that training becomes difficult.

You may see:

• jumping
• barking
• grabbing
• pawing
• staring constantly at your hands
• throwing every behaviour they know at you

If this happens, lower the excitement.

Try a less valuable treat for easy exercises.

Keep the food hidden.

Move more slowly.

Reward calm behaviour.

Give your dog breaks.

You want food to help your dog think, not make thinking impossible.

Should I throw treats on the ground?

Sometimes.

“Find it” is one of the simplest games I use on walks.

Scatter a few small treats somewhere safe and allow the dog to search with their nose.

This can be useful as:

• enrichment
• a simple scent game
• a break between exercises
• a way to encourage sniffing
• part of moving calmly away once sufficient distance has been created

Always check the ground first.

I would not scatter food somewhere containing rubbish, cigarette ends, broken glass or anything else I would not want a dog searching through.

Simple treat-training games

Find it

Place or scatter a few treats in a safe area and encourage your dog to search.

Start somewhere easy.

Recall between two people

Two people stand apart.

One calls the dog and rewards them.

Then the other person repeats the exercise.

Reward the check-in

Do nothing.

Wait.

When your dog voluntarily looks back at you, reward them.

This is one of my favourite walking exercises because the dog begins choosing to stay connected without being constantly instructed.

Treat trail

Use a few pieces of food to create a short scent trail leading to a simple destination.

Keep it easy initially.

Catching calm behaviour

Your dog settles quietly.

Drop a small treat beside them.

You are reinforcing the behaviour you would like to see more often without even giving a command.

For more training ideas, see my Game-Based Dog Training Guide.

A treat pouch can make timing easier

I use a treat pouch on many walks because it allows me to deliver a reward quickly without searching through coat pockets.

You do not need anything complicated.

I look for something that:

• opens easily
• can be reached with one hand
• stays reasonably secure while walking
• is easy to clean

If you want to see the walking and training equipment I actually recommend, including the type of treat pouch I use, visit my Dog Products and Equipment I Recommend page.

That page contains affiliate links where indicated.

Common mistakes when training with treats

Showing the treat first

This can turn the food into a bribe rather than a consequence of the behaviour.

Giving rewards too late

Your dog may associate the food with something completely different.

Making treats too big

Training involves repetition.

Tiny pieces are usually sufficient.

Using extremely exciting food for everything

Save higher-value rewards for situations where they are genuinely useful.

Ignoring the dog’s overall diet

Training food still contains calories.

Increasing difficulty too quickly

Better food cannot indefinitely compensate for an exercise being far too difficult.

Assuming a dog refusing food is being stubborn

They may be worried, overwhelmed or simply unable to concentrate.

Focusing so much on treats that you forget the dog

The food is a tool.

The dog’s behaviour and emotional state should guide what you do next.

How I use treats on one-to-one walks

I carry food because it gives me another useful way to communicate with the dog.

But I do not spend the entire walk feeding them.

I may reward:

• a voluntary check-in
• a loose lead
• moving away with me
• returning on a long line
• waiting
• calmer behaviour around a distraction
• settling after excitement

Then the dog gets to carry on walking.

Sniff.

Explore.

And enjoy being outside.

That balance is important to me.

A walk should not become an hour-long obedience lesson simply because training is part of it.

You can read more about that approach on my Working and Training Walks page.

Related dog-training guides

For the wider subject of training, start with my Dog Training Hub.

You may also find these useful:

• Training Rewards for Dogs
• Loose-Lead Walking Dog Training
• Game-Based Dog Training
• Why Training Matters and Why Sniffing Wee Is Part of It
• Canine Enrichment Guide

Frequently asked questions

Is it OK to train my dog with treats?

Yes.

Food rewards are widely used in reward-based dog training.

The important parts are choosing suitable food, using sensible quantities and delivering the reward at the right time.

Will treats make my dog fat?

They can contribute to weight gain if they are simply added on top of your dog’s normal diet.

Keep rewards small and account for training food within the dog’s total daily intake.

PDSA recommends keeping treats to no more than around 10 per cent of the daily food allowance.

Can I use kibble for training?

Yes, if your dog considers it worthwhile.

Normal food can be ideal for easy exercises, particularly indoors.

More difficult situations may need something your dog values more.

What’s the best dog-training treat?

There is no universal best treat.

Choose something safe that your dog enjoys and that is appropriate for the difficulty of the exercise.

Why won’t my dog take treats outside?

The environment may be too distracting, exciting or stressful.

If your dog normally eats the food happily, create more distance or move somewhere quieter before assuming you need a better treat.

Does using treats mean I’m bribing my dog?

Not when they are used as a reward.

Ideally, the behaviour happens first and the food appears afterwards.

Repeatedly showing food before asking can create reliance on seeing the treat.

When should I stop giving treats?

Reduce food rewards gradually once a behaviour is genuinely well learned across different situations.

You can begin mixing food with other rewards such as praise, play or access to sniffing.

I would continue recognising particularly difficult or important behaviours.

Can I use human food as training treats?

Some dog-safe human foods can be used in tiny quantities, but many foods are unsuitable and some are toxic.

If you are unsure, use a dog-specific product or ask your vet.

Can treats help a reactive dog?

Food can help reinforce useful behaviours, but it does not fix fear or frustration on its own.

Distance, management and understanding the dog’s emotional state are equally important.

Significant aggression or fear may need veterinary and appropriately qualified behavioural support.

Need help putting reward-based training into everyday walks?

Training does not need to be a separate hour-long event.

Useful skills can be reinforced during ordinary life.

If your dog would benefit from calm one-to-one walks where checking in, loose-lead skills, recall foundations and calmer choices can be practised naturally, read about my Working and Training Walks.

Or explore the complete Dog Training Hub.

Final thoughts

Training with treats works best when the food helps create clarity rather than becoming the whole point of the exercise.

Keep rewards small.

Get your timing right.

Use ordinary food where it works.

Save higher-value rewards for harder situations.

Keep the treat hidden until your dog has performed the behaviour.

And pay attention when a normally food-loving dog suddenly stops eating.

Most importantly, remember that food is only one tool.

The long-term aim is not a dog permanently watching your pocket.

It is a dog learning that making good choices leads to worthwhile things happening.

Important

This guide provides general dog-training and feeding information. Individual dietary requirements vary. Speak to your vet if your dog has allergies, digestive problems, weight concerns, a medical condition or is on a prescribed or restricted diet.