Updated September 2026
I saw something in a dog group recently that genuinely bothered me.
Someone asked for help with their adult Great Pyrenees, which was reacting to moving cars and other dogs.
The advice included people saying a harness would make the dog pull. Others suggested shaving the dog’s neck so that a shock collar or prong collar could make proper contact.
No. Just no.
I’ve worked with dogs for a long time, including plenty of nervous, rescue and reactive dogs. When a dog is already finding something difficult, I don’t believe the answer is to deliberately add pain, fear or discomfort.
I want to understand why the dog is reacting, make the situation easier for them to cope with and work from there.
If you’re not sure what people mean when they describe a dog as reactive, start with my guide to reactive dogs.
Key Takeaways
- Using punishment or pain, such as prong or shock collars, is not a solution for reactive dogs; instead, understanding and managing their behaviour is essential.
- Reactive behaviour often signals fear, frustration, or overwhelm; the aim should be to help the dog feel comfortable rather than just stopping their reactions.
- Employ reward-based training to reinforce positive behaviours and create a supportive environment for your reactive dog.
- Create enough distance from triggers to prevent overwhelming situations, as good management can help dogs learn to cope better.
- Seek professional help if needed; getting the right advice is crucial to improving your dog’s behaviour and wellbeing.
Quick answer
When a dog reacts to another dog, a car, a person or something else in their environment, there is a reason for the behaviour.
They may be frightened, frustrated, excited, overwhelmed or struggling for another reason.
My approach is to create enough distance for the dog to cope, avoid forcing interactions, reward the behaviour I want to encourage and gradually help the dog feel more comfortable.
Dogs Trust gives similar advice in its guide to understanding reactive dogs. It recommends creating distance, rewarding dogs when they relax and avoiding punishment, fear and intimidation.
I don’t use prong collars, choke or check chains or shock collars.
Reactive behaviour is communication
A reactive dog might bark, lunge, growl, pull, freeze or desperately try to get away.
We can see the behaviour.
What interests me is what is happening underneath it.
Dogs Trust describes reactivity as a heightened emotional response to something in the environment. A reactive dog may be frightened, frustrated, excited or overwhelmed. Pain or illness may also contribute.
That’s an important distinction.
A dog barking and lunging isn’t necessarily being aggressive, dominant, naughty or deliberately difficult.
They may simply be struggling to cope.
My Dog Behaviour and Body Language guide goes into this in more detail because understanding what a dog may be communicating should usually come before deciding what we need to train.
Stopping the behaviour isn’t the same as changing how a dog feels
This is one of my biggest problems with quick fixes.
Imagine your dog is frightened when another dog approaches.
They bark and lunge.
If something painful or frightening happens every time they react, it’s possible that eventually you might see less of the outward behaviour.
But I don’t think “Did the barking stop?” is the only question we should be asking.
I also want to know:
How does the dog feel?
Have we made the original problem easier?
Or have we simply made reacting uncomfortable enough that the dog stops showing us how they feel?
That’s why I’m much more interested in helping the dog cope than simply making the visible behaviour disappear.
The Dogs Trust guidance on reactive dogs specifically advises against telling a reactive dog off because it can increase stress. For longer-term work, it recommends reward-based methods and avoiding training based on fear, intimidation or pain.
Does a harness make a dog pull?
This was another part of the Facebook discussion that concerned me.
A harness doesn’t magically teach a dog to pull.
Loose-lead walking is a skill.
Dogs need to learn what we want them to do, and equipment doesn’t replace that learning.
The RSPCA states that a comfortable, well-fitting harness can be used while teaching a dog to walk nicely using reward-based methods. Its guidance on prong collars and ethical alternatives also describes loose-lead walking as a skill requiring time, patience and consistency.
For a nervous or reactive dog, I particularly want equipment to be comfortable and secure.
I don’t want to add unnecessary pressure around the dog’s neck when they’re already struggling with their environment.
I’ve covered the practical side separately in my Walking Kit for Nervous or Reactive Dogs guide.
That guide explains the harnesses, leads, backup connections and other equipment that can help make walks safer and easier to manage.
Equipment doesn’t cure reactivity.
It gives us a practical way to manage walks while we work on the reasons behind the behaviour.
Why I don’t use prong collars
A prong collar is sometimes presented online as a simple solution for a powerful dog that pulls or reacts.
That’s not an approach I use.
The RSPCA’s guidance on prong collars explains that they are designed to cause pain or discomfort when the dog pulls.
The RSPCA also raises another important issue.
If pain occurs while something else is happening, the dog may associate that unpleasant experience with whatever they were looking at at the time.
For a reactive dog, I take that very seriously.
If a dog is already worried when another dog approaches, I don’t want that dog’s appearance to predict additional discomfort.
Why I don’t use shock collars
The same principle applies to electronic or shock collars.
I don’t use them.
I don’t need a dog to learn that something unpleasant might happen if they make the wrong choice.
I want to make the right choice easier for them and reinforce it when it happens.
Dogs Trust’s positive reinforcement training guidance explains how rewarding a behaviour makes that behaviour more likely to happen again and how reward-based training can help build confidence.
That’s much closer to how I want dogs in my care to learn.
“But I used one, and my dog was fine”
You’ll nearly always hear this when prong collars, shock collars or other aversive equipment are discussed.
Someone used one.
Their dog stopped pulling or reacting.
Their dog seemed fine.
I’m not saying somebody didn’t experience what they say they experienced.
But an individual experience doesn’t tell us whether something is safe, necessary or appropriate for other dogs.
People drink and drive and get home safely.
That doesn’t make drink-driving safe.
For me, there’s another very simple question.
If I can work with a dog without deliberately causing pain, fear or discomfort, why wouldn’t I choose that approach?
Be careful who you take dog-training advice from online
This is probably what bothered me most about the original Facebook discussion.
It’s incredibly easy to give confident advice about somebody else’s dog.
The person commenting hasn’t necessarily met the dog.
They haven’t watched their body language.
They may know nothing about their medical history.
They may not know what happened previously.
They haven’t seen the environment where the behaviour occurs.
Yet sometimes they’ll confidently tell an owner exactly what equipment to buy and how to correct the dog.
Before following dog-training advice from somebody online, I would ask:
What relevant experience or qualifications does this person have?
Are they asking questions about my individual dog?
Are they interested in why the behaviour is happening?
Have they considered whether pain or illness could be contributing?
Are they trying to help the dog cope better?
Or are they simply promising to stop the visible behaviour as quickly as possible?
If you need professional behavioural help, the Animal Behaviour and Training Council practitioner directory is a good place to find appropriately assessed professionals.
What I do with reactive dogs instead
Helping a reactive dog can look incredibly boring.
That’s fine with me.
Sometimes I cross the road.
Sometimes I turn around.
Sometimes I wait behind a parked car while another dog passes.
Sometimes I choose a quieter road instead of going through the park.
Sometimes we stop and sniff.
Sometimes I shorten the walk.
If the dog needs more distance, I give them more distance.
Dogs Trust recommends creating enough distance for a reactive dog to begin to relax and then rewarding them for moving away and settling.
Avoiding a difficult situation isn’t automatically a failure.
Good management can prevent a dog becoming overwhelmed and repeatedly practising the same reactive behaviour.
This is also a big part of how I approach my reactive and nervous dog walking service in Finchley.
I don’t deliberately take a dog closer to something they’re struggling with just to see whether they can handle it.
I’d rather give them opportunities to succeed.
Progress doesn’t always look impressive
Social media tends to reward dramatic before-and-after videos.
Real progress with a nervous or reactive dog can be much quieter.
A dog notices another dog across the road but can still respond to you.
That’s progress.
A car approaches and you’re able to move somewhere the dog feels safer before they react.
That’s progress.
A dog looks at something they’re worried about and then chooses to turn away.
That’s progress.
You have a short, quiet walk where absolutely nothing exciting happens.
For some dogs, that’s excellent progress.
The dog in front of me determines what a successful walk looks like.
Local walks sometimes need local decisions
Walking a reactive dog around Finchley isn’t the same as walking in a quiet rural area.
There can be narrow pavements, busy roads, runners, children, traffic and dogs appearing unexpectedly.
Even quieter places such as Coldfall Woods can become difficult if a dog appears around a corner or the paths are busy.
That’s why I don’t believe in a fixed route a dog must follow.
If North Finchley is particularly busy, I may choose another direction.
If a park entrance is crowded, I don’t need to go through it.
If another dog is approaching on a narrow pavement, crossing the road before my dog reacts can be far more useful than waiting for the problem to happen.
Owners of nervous dogs may also find my guide to making walks easier for anxious dogs useful.
What about rescue dogs?
Some of the dogs I work with are rescues.
We don’t always know everything that happened before they arrived in their current home.
They may find traffic frightening.
They may struggle with unfamiliar people.
They may react to dogs.
They may freeze instead of moving forward.
They may simply need more time to understand their new environment.
My approach doesn’t change because I don’t know the dog’s complete history.
I work with the dog I have in front of me.
For owners dealing with those early stages, I’ve put together more information about my rescue dog support in Finchley.
When should you speak to your vet?
If your dog’s behaviour changes suddenly or significantly, speak to your vet.
Don’t automatically assume that a new behaviour problem is purely a training issue.
Pain, illness and physical discomfort can affect behaviour.
This is particularly important if a dog who previously coped well suddenly becomes reluctant to walk, unusually reactive, sensitive to touch or behaves differently without an obvious explanation.
I am a professional dog walker.
I’m not a vet and I’m not a clinical animal behaviourist.
Knowing where my professional role ends is important.
When should you get professional behaviour help?
There is absolutely no shame in asking for help.
If you’re struggling to manage your dog’s behaviour safely, if there’s a bite risk, if your dog is extremely frightened or distressed, or if things simply aren’t improving, get appropriate professional support.
The Animal Behaviour and Training Council provides information about recognised practitioner roles and directories for finding appropriately assessed professionals.
Your vet can also help determine whether medical investigation or a behavioural referral is appropriate.
Getting professional help doesn’t mean you’ve failed.
Sometimes it’s exactly what responsible ownership looks like.
Where I stand
I make no secret of this.
No prong collars.
No choke or check chains used to correct behaviour.
No shock collars.
I don’t believe a frightened, frustrated or overwhelmed dog needs me to make their experience more unpleasant.
I’d rather listen to what they’re trying to tell me.
I’d rather create some distance.
I’d rather change the route.
I’d rather reinforce the behaviour I want.
I’d rather work gradually.
And if the dog needs expertise beyond my professional role, I’d rather say so and encourage the owner to get the right help.
It might not produce a dramatic overnight transformation.
That’s not what I’m looking for.
I’m much more interested in helping a dog feel safer than simply making them look quieter.
Related guides
If you’re dealing with difficult walks or a nervous or reactive dog, you may also find these useful:
Is Your Dog a Reactive Dog? explains what reactivity can look like and some of the reasons behind it.
Dog Behaviour and Body Language is the main behaviour hub and a useful starting point if you’re trying to understand what your dog may be communicating.
Walking Kit for Nervous or Reactive Dogs covers harnesses, leads, backup connections and practical walking equipment.
Is Your Dog Anxious on Walks? looks specifically at dogs who find everyday walks difficult.
Rescue Dog Support in Finchley explains the additional one-to-one support I can provide for rescue, nervous and reactive dogs.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my dog react to other dogs?
No single cause applies to every reactive dog.
Fear, frustration, excitement, previous experiences, feeling restricted, becoming overwhelmed and physical discomfort can all contribute.
The behaviour tells us something is happening. Understanding what is driving it is more useful than assuming the dog is simply being naughty.
Does a harness make a dog pull?
A harness doesn’t teach loose-lead walking, but it doesn’t automatically teach a dog to pull either.
Loose-lead walking is a skill you need to teach.
I prefer secure, comfortable walking equipment alongside reward-based training rather than equipment designed to cause neck pain or discomfort when a dog pulls.
Should I use a prong collar for a reactive dog?
I don’t use or recommend prong collars.
I would rather look at why the dog is reacting, manage their environment and distance from triggers, reinforce appropriate behaviour and get qualified professional help where necessary.
Should I use a shock collar for reactivity?
No. I don’t use or recommend shock collars.
My approach focuses on managing the situation and rewarding the behaviour I want, rather than deliberately using pain or fear to suppress behaviour.
Am I rewarding my dog for being frightened if I give them treats?
I use food and other rewards to reinforce useful behaviour and help create more positive experiences.
Dogs Trust recommends rewarding dogs when they begin to relax and using rewards as part of longer-term work around triggers.
Timing, distance, and the individual dog matter, particularly with more serious reactivity. This is one reason qualified professional help can be valuable.
Is crossing the road avoiding the problem?
Sometimes avoiding a difficult encounter is exactly the sensible thing to do.
If crossing the road prevents your dog from becoming overwhelmed, I don’t consider that a failure.
Management and training aren’t opposites.
Creating enough distance for a dog to cope can create the conditions for learning to happen.
Can you train my reactive dog during their walks?
I’m a professional dog walker, not a clinical behaviourist.
I can provide calm, consistent one-to-one walking support, manage the environment and follow an appropriate reward-based plan provided by your trainer or behaviour professional.
Dogs needing additional planning may be suitable for my reactive and nervous dog walking service.
For serious behavioural problems, I may recommend speaking to your vet and an appropriately qualified behaviour professional first.
Behaviour disclaimer
This guide provides general dog-care and walking information. It does not replace individual veterinary or qualified behavioural advice.
If your dog is showing serious fear, aggression, distress, biting behaviour, pain or a sudden change in behaviour, speak to your veterinary practice and an appropriately qualified reward-based behaviour professional.
Need calm one-to-one walking support?
If your dog finds group walks, busy environments or encounters with unfamiliar dogs difficult, have a look at my Reactive and Nervous Dog Walking in Finchley service.
I provide calm one-to-one walks around Finchley and selected nearby parts of North London.
No group walks, no unfamiliar dogs added to the walk, and no van collection rounds.
I adapt the route, pace, and expectations to the dog in front of me.
You can also see how my standard solo dog walks in Finchley work.
If you’d like to discuss whether I’m the right fit for your dog or if you need some training support, please get in touch.
