Updated September 2026
If your dog has never stayed with a pet sitter before, try not to make departure day their first proper experience of that person.
A few calm introductions beforehand can help your dog learn that the sitter is familiar, predictable and safe. Some dogs may settle after one or two meetings, while nervous, rescue or more sensitive dogs may need considerably more time.
The goal isn’t to make your dog instantly love the sitter. It is to build familiarity gradually and find out how comfortable your dog genuinely is before you leave them together.
Key Takeaways
- Introduce your dog to the pet sitter gradually, so they can build familiarity over multiple visits.
- Start with calm meet-and-greet sessions where the dog can approach the sitter at their own pace.
- Avoid making departure day a big event; keep routines predictable to help your dog adjust.
- A short trial sit can help you gauge how your dog responds when you’re away; monitor their comfort level throughout.
- Consult a professional if your dog shows significant distress during introductions or when left alone.
Table of contents
- How far in advance should my dog meet their pet sitter?
- Start with a calm meet-and-greet
- Should a pet sitter ignore my dog at first?
- Build familiarity through several ordinary visits
- Should my pet sitter walk my dog before the booking?
- Should I let the sitter handle the lead during a practice walk?
- Do a short trial before a longer house sit
- What if my dog will not approach the sitter?
- Keep your dog’s routine familiar
- Use familiar rewards and activities
- What information should I give the sitter about my dog’s behaviour?
- Avoid making departure day a major event
- What if my dog becomes distressed when I leave?
- What I would do with a nervous dog
- Can staying at home make the change easier?
- Frequently asked questions
- Give your dog time to get to know the person
- Important information
How far in advance should my dog meet their pet sitter?
Ideally, arrange the first meeting well before the day you are due to travel.
There is no fixed number of introductions that suits every dog. A confident, sociable dog may only need a couple of meetings. A nervous dog may need several shorter visits before they are comfortable being left with that person.
I would rather find this out early than discover on the first night of a holiday that a dog is frightened of the person who is supposed to be caring for them.
If you already know your dog needs time to trust unfamiliar people, allow as much preparation time as reasonably possible.
Start with a calm meet-and-greet
The first meeting does not need to involve lots of interaction.
For many dogs, particularly nervous or rescue dogs, having some space is easier than a stranger immediately approaching, leaning over them, or trying to fuss them.
I prefer introductions where the dog can observe me and approach in their own time.
Depending on the dog, that might mean I initially sit or stand quietly, speak to the owner and allow the dog to investigate without pressure.
The first meeting is also an opportunity for me to learn about your dog’s:
- normal routine
- body language
- favourite resting places
- walking habits
- triggers and fears
- food and treats
- handling preferences
- relationship with unfamiliar people
- behaviour around the front door
- behaviour around other dogs
- health and medication where relevant
A meet-and-greet should work both ways. You need to feel comfortable with the sitter, and the sitter needs enough information to decide whether they can safely meet your dog’s needs.
Should a pet sitter ignore my dog at first?
Sometimes giving a dog space is the kindest introduction.
A dog who is unsure of strangers may find direct eye contact, reaching towards them or enthusiastic attention uncomfortable.
That does not mean every sitter should completely ignore every dog. The key is to respond to the individual dog rather than follow a rigid rule.
Some dogs will approach immediately.
Others may watch from across the room.
Some may sniff and then move away.
Don’t force a worried dog to interact just because you want the introduction to go well.
Giving them choice can tell you much more about how they genuinely feel.
Build familiarity through several ordinary visits
If your dog needs more preparation, I would make each introduction calm and predictable rather than trying to achieve too much in one session.
A simple progression might look like this:
First visit
The sitter comes into the home while you are present.
Keep the visit fairly relaxed. Your dog can observe, sniff and approach if they choose.
No need to force physical contact.
Second visit
Repeat the calm arrival.
If your dog is comfortable, the sitter might join in something ordinary, such as refreshing the water bowl, preparing an agreed treat, or sitting with you while the dog relaxes.
The point is for the sitter to become part of normal life, not someone who only appears right before you disappear.
Third visit
If your dog is ready, include part of their normal routine.
That could be going into the garden, preparing a meal or joining you on a familiar walk.
This also allows the sitter to see how you handle your dog in everyday situations.
Later visits
For dogs who need them, the sitter can gradually take a little more responsibility while you remain nearby.
Eventually you might leave the room or go out briefly while the sitter stays with your dog.
Only progress when your dog is coping comfortably with the stage you are already on.
Should my pet sitter walk my dog before the booking?
A familiarisation walk can be very useful if your dog is comfortable enough.
I would normally want to understand how a dog walks before being responsible for them while their owner is away.
That includes knowing:
- which routes they normally use
- where they tend to toilet
- how they respond to other dogs
- how they react to traffic, bicycles, runners or children
- whether they pull
- whether they stop or refuse to move
- what normally worries them
- what helps them create distance from a trigger
- which equipment they use
- whether there are places or situations I should avoid
For a nervous or reactive dog, a familiar route can be particularly important.
If you already know your dog is happier on quieter streets or particular paths, tell your sitter rather than expecting them to work it out after you leave.
Should I let the sitter handle the lead during a practice walk?
Only when your dog is comfortable, and the sitter understands how you normally manage them.
One useful progression is for the sitter to accompany you first.
Your dog can experience walking alongside this new person without immediately losing the security of their normal handler.
If everything is comfortable, the sitter can gradually become more involved.
This is also the time to explain the words, cues and equipment your dog already understands.
A holiday is not the time for somebody to introduce a completely different handling system unless there is a genuine safety reason.
Do a short trial before a longer house sit
For some dogs, the most useful preparation is a small version of the real arrangement.
Once your dog knows the sitter reasonably well, you might arrange for the sitter to stay while you leave for a short period.
Going for a coffee, doing some shopping or taking a walk gives you useful information without committing immediately to an overnight stay.
A short trial can show whether your dog:
- settles after you leave
- remains close to the door
- paces or vocalises
- accepts food
- rests normally
- interacts comfortably with the sitter
- becomes increasingly worried
- behaves differently once you are no longer present
The sitter can also learn what works rather than relying entirely on what normally happens at home.
What if my dog will not approach the sitter?
Do not force the interaction.
A dog does not have to greet somebody enthusiastically for an introduction to be useful.
Watch what happens over time.
Is your dog able to settle at a distance?
Do they choose to come closer?
Can they eat, sniff, lie down or return to normal activities?
Or are they becoming increasingly worried?
If your dog needs several meetings before approaching, that does not necessarily mean the arrangement cannot work.
But if their discomfort remains significant, the sensible answer may be that this particular sitter or type of care is not suitable.
Finding that out before your holiday is far better than trying to make an unsuitable arrangement work after you have gone.
Keep your dog’s routine familiar
Once your dog is comfortable with the person, keeping the rest of life reasonably predictable can make the transition easier.
The RSPCA recommends giving a person caring for your pet details of their normal routine and trying to maintain it as much as possible.
That does not mean every minute has to happen at exactly the same time.
It means avoiding unnecessary changes when your dog is already adjusting to your absence.
Tell your sitter about things that may seem obvious to you, including:
- normal feeding times
- usual walking times
- toilet routine
- where your dog sleeps
- whether doors are normally left open or closed
- where your dog rests during the evening
- any noises that worry them
- whether they like physical contact
- what normally helps them settle
- what happens when somebody comes to the door
The more accurately I understand a dog’s normal day, the less guesswork is required once their owner leaves.
Use familiar rewards and activities
If your dog already enjoys particular treats, toys or enrichment activities, they can sometimes help create positive, predictable experiences with the sitter.
Keep these activities familiar.
I would not introduce several new foods, chews or complicated enrichment products immediately before you go away.
For example, the sitter might give your dog’s usual treat after coming in, prepare an enrichment activity the dog already knows or take them on a familiar sniffing walk.
The activity itself is less important than it being safe, enjoyable and already understood by the dog.
What information should I give the sitter about my dog’s behaviour?
Tell them the things you might otherwise be tempted to describe as your dog’s “quirks”.
I need to know if a dog:
- dislikes being touched somewhere
- guards food, toys or resting places
- reacts to other dogs
- is frightened of particular people
- dislikes having a harness put on
- tries to escape through doors
- becomes distressed when left
- is frightened by fireworks or other noises
- has a bite history
- struggles with visitors entering the home
- becomes worried around food
- behaves differently at night
This information does not make your dog “bad”.
It helps the person caring for them avoid preventable problems.
Please be completely open about previous incidents and known triggers. It is much easier for me to plan around something I know about.
Avoid making departure day a major event
Once you have done the preparation, try to make the final handover straightforward.
Your sitter should already know where things are, what the normal routine looks like and how your dog responds to them.
Your dog should also have had the opportunity to learn that this person comes into the house and ordinary life continues.
I would avoid turning the final goodbye into the first long discussion about food, medication, walks or where everything is kept.
That information should already have been covered and written down.
For more detailed advice about preparing instructions and your home, read How to Prepare Your Home for a Pet Sitter.
What if my dog becomes distressed when I leave?
There is an important difference between a dog needing time to get used to a sitter and a dog who experiences significant distress when their owner leaves.
Changing the sitter will not necessarily solve a separation-related problem.
Signs such as persistent vocalisation, frantic escape attempts, destructive behaviour around exits, severe pacing or an inability to settle need to be taken seriously.
If your dog shows significant or worsening distress when left, speak to your vet. They can help rule out medical factors and, where appropriate, refer you to a suitably qualified behaviour professional.
A pet sitter can sometimes be part of the practical care arrangement, but pet sitting is not a treatment for separation anxiety.
What I would do with a nervous dog
If you contacted me three weeks before a holiday and told me your dog was nervous of unfamiliar people, I would not want our first proper interaction to happen as you were carrying your suitcase through the front door.
I would want to meet the dog beforehand.
Depending on how they responded, I might then suggest another visit, a familiar walk together or a short period where you leave us together.
I would keep the introductions calm and allow the dog to decide whether they wanted to approach.
If they needed more distance, I would give them more distance.
If we discovered the arrangement wasn’t going to be safe or comfortable, I would rather tell you before the booking than pretend everything would be fine.
That preparation is especially important with rescue, nervous, and reactive dogs, because familiarity and predictability can make a real difference in how manageable a change feels.
Can staying at home make the change easier?
For some dogs, yes.
The RSPCA notes that having someone care for a pet in their own home can help keep their surroundings and routine familiar, although the best arrangement for an individual dog depends on that dog.
With house sitting, the person changes, but the dog’s bed, smells, garden, local walks and normal surroundings stay the same.
That can be particularly useful for some rescue dogs, nervous dogs, senior dogs and dogs who do not enjoy unfamiliar environments.
It will not suit every dog or every household, but itis an option worth considering.
I provide House Sitting in Finchley and North London, where I stay in the client’s home and care for one house-sitting household at a time.
My standard house-sitting service includes overnight care and allows agreed daytime absences. I also offer continuous care separately where a suitable pet cannot comfortably manage normal daytime absences.
Frequently asked questions
How many times should my dog meet a sitter before I go away?
There is no correct number.
A confident dog may settle after one or two good introductions, while a nervous dog may need several visits.
Base the decision on how your dog is responding rather than trying to reach a predetermined number of meetings.
Should I be there when my dog first meets the sitter?
Usually, yes.
Having you present initially gives the sitter a chance to learn about your dog while your dog meets them without also having to cope with your sudden absence.
Later, a short trial without you can be useful if your dog is ready.
What if my dog barks at the sitter?
Barking can have several causes, so look at the rest of your dog’s body language and the situation rather than assuming what it means.
Give your dog enough space and avoid forcing an interaction.
If the barking is part of significant fear, aggression or another behavioural concern, discuss it honestly with the sitter and seek appropriate professional advice where necessary.
Should my sitter give my dog treats?
If your dog can safely have treats and is comfortable enough to take them, their normal treats can sometimes be useful.
Do not use food to force a worried dog closer than they want to come, and tell the sitter about allergies, dietary restrictions, guarding or other food-related issues.
Should my dog have a trial sit before my holiday?
For many dogs, a short trial is useful.
It allows you to see how your dog responds when you actually leave and gives the sitter practical experience of caring for them without immediately committing to several days.
What should I leave for my pet sitter?
Leave clear written instructions covering your pet’s routine, feeding, medication where applicable, veterinary details, emergency contacts and anything important about their behaviour.
For the full preparation checklist, read Leaving Your Dog with a Pet Sitter for the First Time and How to Prepare Your Home for a Pet Sitter.
Give your dog time to get to know the person
Getting your dog used to a pet sitter is not about forcing them to make friends.
It is about making an unfamiliar person more familiar before you ask your dog to cope without you.
Start early enough to see how your dog genuinely responds. Use calm introductions, familiar routines and short practice periods where useful.
Most importantly, listen to the dog in front of you.
If they need more time, give them more time. If the arrangement clearly is not suitable, finding another solution before you travel is the responsible choice.
If you are in Finchley or a nearby area and considering in-home care, read about my House Sitting in Finchley and North London service or contact me to discuss your dog’s routine and whether the service is a good fit.
Important information
This guide provides general dog-care information.
If your dog shows significant separation-related distress, a sudden behavioural change, aggression or behaviour that could put them or another person at risk, speak to your veterinary practice and seek appropriately qualified behavioural support where needed.