Updated October 2026 | By Derek (Del) Chambers, Finchley Dog Walker
Summer grooming isn’t simply about making your dog look tidy or cutting their coat shorter.
It’s about keeping their skin and coat comfortable, preventing painful mats, removing loose hair and spotting potential problems after walks.
When I’m walking dogs around Finchley and Muswell Hill, particularly through Cherry Tree Wood, Coldfall Wood and other green spaces, I notice how much can become caught in a dog’s coat during warmer months.
Grass seeds, twigs and bits of vegetation can hide between toes or beneath longer fur. Some dogs shed heavily, while others develop tangles that become uncomfortable surprisingly quickly.
And, of course, warmer weather brings the temptation to give every thick-coated dog a dramatic summer haircut.
But shaving a dog isn’t always the right answer.
I’ve been caring for dogs professionally since 2011, and I consider each dog’s coat, health, comfort, and confidence rather than following a single grooming routine for every breed.
In this guide, I’ll explain what summer grooming can help with, how to adapt care to different coat types and when to seek professional advice.
Quick answer: How should you groom your dog in summer?
Most dogs benefit from regular, gentle grooming throughout summer, but the frequency and equipment depend on their coat and individual needs.
My main recommendations are:
- Brush appropriately to remove loose hair and prevent tangles.
- Use tools suited to your dog’s coat type.
- Check paws, ears and coat after walks through long grass.
- Don’t automatically shave a thick or double-coated dog.
- Remove or arrange treatment for mats before they become painful.
- Bathe your dog when needed rather than following a universal schedule.
- Dry the coat thoroughly and comfortably, particularly where dense fur holds moisture.
- Check for skin irritation, ticks and grass seeds.
- Keep grooming sessions short and reward-based if your dog is nervous.
- Ask your vet or an experienced groomer about clipping, persistent matting or skin concerns.
Most importantly, grooming does not replace heat safety. Dogs still need suitable shade, drinking water, a comfortable environment and changes to exercise when conditions are unsafe.
For wider precautions, see my Summer Dog Safety Guide.
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I recommend choosing grooming equipment for your dog’s particular coat rather than buying products simply because they’re advertised for summer.
Why grooming matters during summer
A healthy coat helps protect a dog’s skin from environmental conditions.
However, loose undercoat, dirt and tangles can make a coat harder to maintain and may contribute to discomfort.
Mats can pull at the skin, conceal irritation and hold moisture close to the body.
In warmer weather, dogs may also spend more time outdoors, encountering vegetation, dust, pollen, and other material that can become trapped in the coat.
Regular grooming gives owners an opportunity to:
- Remove loose or dead hair.
- Prevent tangles from becoming painful mats.
- Check for grass seeds and ticks.
- Notice unusual lumps, sore areas or skin changes.
- Inspect areas beneath collars and harnesses.
- Help maintain coat condition.
- Build positive handling experiences.
The RSPCA’s Summer Dog Safety Guidance recommends regular grooming during warm weather to remove dead hair, knots and mats.
But a dog who seems unusually hot, pants heavily or struggles during walks doesn’t simply need more grooming.
They may be overheating or have another health problem.
Grooming can contribute to comfort, but it cannot make exercise in unsafe heat acceptable.
Should you shave your dog in summer?
This is probably one of the most common questions about summer grooming.
When you see a dog with a thick coat, it’s understandable to think that removing most of the hair must make them cooler.
The reality is more complicated.
Different coats have different structures and functions.
Some dogs need regular clipping because their coats continue growing and are prone to matting.
Others have double coats that require careful removal of loose undercoat rather than routine shaving.
Removing too much coat may expose skin to sunlight and increase the risk of sunburn.
It may also affect the coat’s normal protection and regrowth.
Double-coated dogs
Breeds such as Huskies and many German Shepherds have an outer coat and a softer undercoat.
These layers serve different functions, including protecting against environmental conditions.
During seasonal shedding, removing the loose undercoat with suitable grooming tools can help.
However, shaving a double coat solely because the weather is hot isn’t generally advisable without individual professional guidance.
I would ask a knowledgeable groomer or vet before making a substantial change to coat length.
Long-haired and continuously growing coats
Some dogs with continuously growing coats benefit from regular professional trimming to maintain a manageable length and prevent matting.
The appropriate length depends on their coat, lifestyle, health and the groomer’s assessment.
A summer trim doesn’t need to mean shaving the dog close to the skin.
What if the coat is severely matted?
This is an important exception.
Severe matting can be painful and may require clipping by a professional even when preserving the coat would otherwise be preferable.
I wouldn’t attempt to pull apart tight mats or cut close to the skin with household scissors.
The dog’s welfare comes first.
PDSA’s Guide to Keeping Dogs Cool in Summer explains why the decision to trim a dog’s coat should take account of its individual type.
How to groom different dog coat types in summer
Not every breed needs the same tools or grooming frequency.
These are general starting points, not rigid instructions.
| Coat type | Summer grooming priorities | When to ask for help |
|---|---|---|
| Smooth or short coat | Remove loose hair, check skin and paws | Persistent irritation or excessive shedding |
| Double coat | Gently remove loose undercoat, prevent tangles | Significant matting or proposed shaving |
| Long or silky coat | Prevent knots around legs, ears and harness areas | Mats close to skin |
| Curly or continuously growing coat | Regular brushing and coat maintenance | Professional clipping and difficult mats |
| Wire coat | Appropriate coat-specific care | Hand-stripping or other specialist techniques |
Smooth-coated dogs
Short-coated dogs may not need complicated grooming equipment.
A suitable soft brush or grooming mitt may be enough to remove loose hair and check skin condition.
Pay attention to areas where a harness or collar rubs.
Short coats can still develop skin problems, and dogs with thin or pale coats may be more vulnerable to sun exposure.
Double-coated dogs
These dogs often shed large amounts of undercoat during seasonal changes.
I would focus on gentle, regular removal of loose hair with equipment suited to the coat.
Avoid harsh, repeated scraping with a shedding tool.
Some tools can damage the coat or irritate skin if used incorrectly.
A specialist groomer may be particularly helpful when the dog has a dense coat or is difficult to groom comfortably.
Long-haired dogs
Long coats can pick up vegetation and develop tangles in places owners don’t notice right away.
Common areas include:
- Behind the ears.
- Beneath the collar.
- Around the armpits.
- Between the legs.
- Under harness straps.
- Around the tail.
- Near the paws.
I would check these areas regularly, working gently and taking breaks.
Don’t assume that brushing the visible top of the coat means the hair beneath is free from tangles.
Curly and continuously growing coats
Some curly-coated dogs are especially prone to mats if brushing and clipping are neglected.
Their coats may need a more structured grooming routine throughout the year, not just during summer.
An experienced groomer can recommend the right maintenance interval and coat length for the individual dog.
Wire-haired dogs
Wire coats require different techniques depending on the breed and coat condition.
Hand-stripping may be appropriate for some coats, but it needs suitable skill and should not cause unnecessary distress or discomfort.
I wouldn’t recommend attempting unfamiliar stripping techniques at home without proper instruction.
For fuller advice about brushing, bathing, nails and calm handling, visit my Year-Round Dog Grooming Guide.
How often should you brush your dog in summer?
There isn’t one correct answer for every dog.
A short-coated dog may only need occasional brushing, while a dog with a dense, curly or easily matted coat may need attention much more frequently.
I would base the routine on:
- Coat type and length.
- How heavily the dog sheds.
- Whether mats develop.
- Time spent in long grass.
- Skin sensitivity.
- The dog’s comfort with handling.
- Advice from their groomer or vet.
The goal isn’t to brush for a particular number of minutes.
It’s to maintain a healthy, comfortable coat without causing distress.
A gentle brushing routine
- Choose a quiet place where your dog feels comfortable.
- Use a non-slip surface.
- Have suitable rewards available.
- Begin with an area your dog is comfortable having touched.
- Use light, appropriate strokes.
- Check how the dog responds.
- Stop before they become worried or uncomfortable.
- Build up gradually over several sessions.
If your dog moves away, freezes, becomes tense or repeatedly tries to avoid the brush, don’t force them to continue.
You may need to return to a simpler handling exercise.
Dogs Trust provides a detailed Guide to Helping Dogs Feel Comfortable with Handling.
How to prevent painful mats
Matting happens when hair becomes tangled and compacted.
It can be particularly troublesome in long, curly or dense coats.
Mats may pull against the skin as the dog moves.
They can also conceal irritation or make it difficult to check for problems.
My approach to small tangles
If a tangle is loose, the dog is comfortable and I have a suitable tool, gentle brushing may be enough.
I wouldn’t pull repeatedly or continue if the area is painful.
For difficult knots, a professional groomer is the safer option.
When you shouldn’t attempt removal at home
Seek professional help for:
- Tight mats against the skin.
- Large or widespread mats.
- Mats around sensitive areas.
- Skin redness, wounds or discharge.
- A dog who is frightened or painful when touched.
Household scissors can cause serious injuries because skin may be drawn into a tight mat.
Don’t cut close to the skin unless you’re appropriately trained and equipped.
A welfare-led groomer should explain what is realistically possible without unnecessary pain.
Grass seeds: What I check after summer walks
This is one of the summer hazards I pay particular attention to.
When walking dogs through green spaces around Finchley and Muswell Hill, I notice how easily grass seeds can become caught in a coat.
They may seem like harmless bits of vegetation, but some seeds have pointed structures that can lodge in paws, ears, eyes or skin.
Once embedded, they can cause significant discomfort and may move deeper into tissues.
Areas worth checking
After walking through long or drying grass, I would look around:
- Between the toes.
- The paw pads.
- The ears and surrounding fur.
- The armpits.
- The chest and tummy.
- Long hair around the legs.
- The tail and hindquarters.
You can carefully remove loose seeds caught on the surface of the coat if it is safe to do so.
But a seed that has entered the skin, ear or eye needs veterinary assessment.
Warning signs
Contact your vet if your dog develops:
- Sudden limping.
- Repeated licking of one paw.
- Swelling between toes.
- Persistent head shaking.
- Ear pain.
- Squinting or eye discharge.
- Unexplained sneezing after a walk.
Don’t try to dig out an embedded grass seed.
My Environmental Hazards for Dogs on Walks guide covers the other everyday risks I look for.
You can also read PDSA’s Grass Seeds in Dogs Advice.
Ticks and summer coat checks
Ticks are another reason to examine your dog’s coat after suitable outdoor walks.
They may attach to the skin and can be difficult to notice beneath longer fur.
Checks are especially useful after walks through vegetation where ticks may be present.
Pay attention to:
- Around the ears.
- The head and neck.
- Beneath collars.
- The armpits.
- Between toes.
- Around the groin.
If you find an attached tick, use a suitable tick-removal tool according to veterinary guidance or ask your veterinary practice for help.
Don’t burn the tick or cover it with oils or chemicals.
If your dog becomes unwell after possible tick exposure, contact your vet.
Your vet can also advise on suitable parasite prevention.
Bathing your dog during summer
Summer can mean more muddy walks, dusty coats and the occasional unpleasant smell.
But that doesn’t mean every dog should be bathed weekly.
Bathing frequency depends on coat, skin condition, lifestyle and any veterinary instructions.
Overbathing or using unsuitable products may irritate the skin.
Before bathing
Consider whether your dog actually needs a full bath.
Sometimes wiping dirty paws or rinsing a small area with water may be enough.
If a full bath is appropriate:
- Use a shampoo suitable for dogs.
- Check whether your dog has a prescribed skin-care routine.
- Keep the water comfortably lukewarm.
- Use a stable, non-slip surface.
- Keep products away from eyes and ears.
- Rinse thoroughly.
- Dry the dog appropriately for their coat.
Never use strong household detergents or essential oils as substitutes for appropriate grooming products.
Why drying matters
A dense coat that remains damp may contribute to skin discomfort.
Make sure the dog is dried appropriately, particularly around skin folds and areas where thick fur holds moisture.
If using a dryer, keep temperature, noise and air pressure comfortable.
Some dogs find dryers frightening.
Don’t force them to tolerate equipment that causes significant distress.
For dogs with skin conditions, your vet may prescribe a particular shampoo, bathing interval or drying method.
Follow that guidance rather than a general summer grooming schedule.
Sunburn and exposed skin
Dogs can develop sunburn, particularly where skin is lightly pigmented or covered by little hair.
Common vulnerable areas include the nose, ear tips and other exposed patches.
Dogs who have recently been clipped may have more exposed skin than usual.
I would prioritise shade and avoiding unnecessary exposure to strong sunlight.
A suitable pet-safe sunscreen may be recommended for some dogs, but choose a product with veterinary guidance rather than using human sunscreen without checking its ingredients.
The RSPCA’s Summer Dog Advice covers sun protection and other warm-weather precautions.
Grooming nervous and rescue dogs
Not every dog enjoys being brushed or handled.
Some find certain areas uncomfortable.
Others may have had frightening grooming experiences in the past.
This is particularly relevant for nervous rescue dogs, although any dog may dislike grooming.
I don’t believe in simply holding a dog still and continuing until the job is finished.
Whenever possible, I prefer a gradual, reward-based approach that gives the dog some choice.
Start with confidence, not the brush
For a worried dog, the first session might involve nothing more than allowing them to investigate the brush.
Then you could practise a brief touch in a comfortable area, reward the dog and finish.
Build up slowly.
Watch for early signs that the dog is uncomfortable, such as:
- Turning away.
- Becoming stiff.
- Moving back.
- Lip licking in context.
- Repeated attempts to leave.
- Growling or snapping.
If the dog becomes distressed, stop.
Never punish their warning signals.
If matting is already painful or urgent, discuss a veterinary-supported grooming plan rather than delaying necessary care indefinitely or forcing a distressing session.
My Dog Behaviour and Body Language Hub explains how I recognise discomfort and why choice matters.
How to choose a suitable professional dog groomer
A good groomer does more than make a dog look smart.
They should understand coat types, handle dogs appropriately and explain how they will manage discomfort or matting.
I would ask:
- What experience do you have with this coat type?
- How do you manage dogs who are nervous about handling?
- Can you explain the grooming process before starting?
- What happens if my dog becomes distressed?
- Will you tell me if you find sore skin, mats or anything unusual?
- What is your approach to clipping double coats?
- Do you hold appropriate business insurance?
- How do you clean and maintain your grooming equipment?
- Can you explain any additional charges if the coat is badly matted?
- Will you recommend veterinary attention if grooming reveals a health concern?
I would be cautious about anyone who guarantees a stress-free appointment regardless of the dog’s history or insists every thick-coated dog should be shaved for summer.
No single RSPCA or Kennel Club accreditation guarantees the welfare standards of every UK dog groomer.
Look for relevant training, experience, clear explanations, safe handling and a willingness to put the dog’s comfort first.
Suitable grooming equipment: What is worth buying?
I don’t believe owners need a large collection of brushes and grooming gadgets.
The most useful tool suits the dog’s coat and is comfortable to use.
| Equipment | Potential use | Important consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Soft brush or grooming mitt | Short coats and gentle handling | Choose suitable materials for sensitive skin |
| Pin brush | Some longer coats | Avoid catching or pulling tangles |
| Suitable slicker brush | Selected long or dense coats | Technique and pressure matter |
| Metal comb | Checking for remaining tangles | Do not force through tight mats |
| Undercoat tool | Removing loose hair from appropriate coats | Incorrect use may damage the coat |
| Non-slip mat | Stable grooming surface | Must remain comfortable and secure |
| Dog shampoo | Bathing when needed | Match the product to skin and coat requirements |
View my Dog Enrichment Toys and Equipment Recommendations,
I wouldn’t recommend one particular slicker brush, undercoat tool or shampoo for every dog.
Inappropriate grooming equipment can cause more problems than it solves.
What I check after summer dog walks
Regular grooming also makes it easier to notice changes following a walk.
When appropriate, I pay attention to:
- Dirt and debris around the paws.
- Grass seeds or vegetation caught in longer fur.
- Anything unusual around the ears.
- Areas where a harness may have rubbed.
- Unexpected limping.
- Head shaking or repeated scratching.
- Signs that the dog is uncomfortable.
These are everyday welfare observations, not veterinary examinations.
If I notice something concerning while caring for a client’s dog, I let the owner know and follow the agreed emergency arrangements where necessary.
I don’t attempt to diagnose skin problems or remove embedded objects.
For more about the way I plan and manage walks, see my Solo Dog Walking Service in Finchley and Muswell Hill.
Summer grooming checklist
This checklist can help you decide what needs doing without creating unnecessary grooming sessions.
Regular coat care
- Check for tangles and mats.
- Brush with tools suited to your dog’s coat.
- Pay attention to areas beneath the harness and collar.
- Look for sore or irritated skin.
- Allow breaks and respect signs of discomfort.
- Arrange professional help for difficult matting.
After walks through long grass
- Check between toes and around paws.
- Look around the ears.
- Check longer fur for loose grass seeds.
- Look for ticks where relevant.
- Notice unusual licking, scratching or head shaking.
- Contact your vet if an embedded grass seed is suspected.
During warmer weather
- Provide shade and fresh water.
- Adapt walks to the conditions.
- Avoid hot surfaces and unsafe exercise.
- Make sure your dog’s resting area is comfortable.
- Consider exposed skin and sun protection.
- Remember that grooming cannot prevent heatstroke.
When to contact your vet
Not every grooming problem can be resolved with a different brush.
Contact your vet if your dog has:
- Painful or inflamed skin.
- Persistent itching.
- Unusual hair loss.
- Repeated ear irritation.
- Sudden changes in coat condition.
- A suspected embedded grass seed.
- A tick-related concern accompanied by illness.
- Persistent discomfort when touched.
- Unexplained heavy panting or other signs of illness.
If you suspect heatstroke, begin appropriate cooling immediately and contact your vet urgently.
Don’t spend time brushing, bathing or clipping a dog who may be experiencing a medical emergency.
See my Dog First Aid Hub and Summer Dog Safety Guide.
Frequently asked questions
Should I shave my dog in summer?
Not automatically. Whether clipping is appropriate depends on the coat type and individual dog. Double coats generally need careful maintenance rather than routine shaving. Ask a knowledgeable groomer or vet before making a substantial change.
Does brushing help keep dogs comfortable in hot weather?
Regular, suitable brushing removes loose hair and helps prevent mats. This may improve coat comfort, but it does not replace heat precautions.
How often should I brush my dog during summer?
It depends on the dog’s coat, shedding, tendency to mat and comfort with handling. Some need frequent brushing, while others require much less.
Should I bathe my dog every week?
Not as a general rule. Bathing frequency depends on coat, lifestyle, skin health and veterinary recommendations. Excessive washing can irritate some dogs’ skin.
Are double-coated dogs hotter if their fur is long?
Coat structure and thickness affect comfort, but the relationship is not as simple as assuming shorter fur always means a cooler dog. Seek individual grooming advice.
Can grass seeds become stuck in a dog’s paws?
Yes. Grass seeds may lodge between toes or enter the skin, ears and eyes. Contact your vet if a seed appears embedded or your dog develops symptoms.
What if my dog hates being brushed?
Start with short, positive handling exercises and suitable rewards. Avoid forcing the dog. For urgent matting or serious handling difficulties, seek qualified help.
Can I cut out a mat with scissors?
I wouldn’t recommend cutting close to the skin at home. Tight mats can pull skin into the hair and make accidental injury more likely. Ask a professional groomer or vet.
Does my dog need a professional groomer in summer?
Not every dog does. Some coats are straightforward to maintain at home, while others require regular specialist care. Choose according to coat type and individual needs.
Is grooming enough to prevent heatstroke?
No. Heatstroke prevention depends on avoiding unsafe conditions, providing an appropriate environment, water, shade and suitable exercise arrangements.
Final thoughts
Summer grooming should be about comfort, not appearance.
A dog doesn’t need a dramatic haircut just because the sun has come out.
They need a coat that is properly maintained, a routine suited to their individual needs and an owner who knows when something isn’t right.
For some dogs, that means removing loose hair regularly.
For others, it means careful attention to mats, arranging an appropriate trim or helping them feel more confident about being handled.
And after a walk through long grass, a quick check around paws and ears can be particularly worthwhile.
I would rather spend a few calm minutes maintaining a dog’s coat than push through a long grooming session that leaves them worried or uncomfortable.
As with so much of dog care, the best approach is the one that suits the dog in front of you.
Further reading and trusted sources
Finchley Dog Walker guides
- Dog Grooming Tips: Year-Round Guide
- Summer Dog Safety Guide
- Environmental Hazards for Dogs on Walks
- Dog Behaviour and Body Language Hub
- Dog First Aid Hub
Independent UK welfare guidance
- RSPCA: Summer Dog Safety
- PDSA: How to Keep Your Dog Cool in Summer
- PDSA: Grass Seeds in Dogs
- Dogs Trust: How to Handle Your Dog
Veterinary disclaimer: This article offers general grooming and welfare advice based on my experience caring for dogs and information from established UK animal welfare organisations. It does not replace veterinary diagnosis, treatment or individual coat-care guidance. If your dog has painful mats, skin problems, sudden changes or signs of heatstroke, seek appropriate professional help.
Originally published July 2017. Substantially revised October 2026.
