First aid for dogs Hub

Updated September 2026

Knowing a little about dog health and first aid does not mean trying to be your own vet.

For me, it means noticing when something is wrong, knowing what you can safely do in the first few minutes, avoiding actions that could make things worse, and recognising when your dog needs veterinary help.

I have worked professionally with dogs since 2011 and hold an Ofqual Level 3 qualification in Canine First Aid. On one-to-one walks around Finchley and North London, I am also in a good position to notice when an individual dog suddenly moves, breathes or behaves differently from normal.

This guide brings together my practical dog health and first-aid information, from heatstroke, poisoning and wounds to ticks, grass seeds, post-walk checks and the smaller changes that may be worth mentioning to your vet.

Important: If your dog is struggling to breathe, has collapsed or become unresponsive, is bleeding heavily, is having seizures, appears to be in severe pain, or you suspect poisoning or heatstroke, contact a veterinary professional immediately. First aid should support veterinary care, not delay it.

What dog first aid actually means

First aid is the immediate support you give before veterinary assessment or treatment is available.

Sometimes that may involve doing something practical, such as applying pressure to a serious bleeding wound or cooling an overheating dog.

Just as importantly, it can mean knowing what not to do.

I would rather make an injured dog safe and phone a vet than start experimenting with treatments because they appeared in a video online.

The basic aim is to:

• make the situation as safe as possible
• check how your dog is responding and breathing
• prevent an injury from becoming worse
• contact your vet when appropriate
• give clear information about what happened
• transport your dog safely when veterinary care is needed

Remember that a frightened or painful dog may behave very differently from normal. Even a normally gentle dog can bite when injured, frightened or struggling to breathe.

I believe every dog owner should do some kind of first aid course, and would recommend Rachel Bean’s online course as a very good starting point

When your dog needs urgent veterinary help

Some situations should not be watched for a few hours to see what happens.

Contact a vet urgently if your dog has:

• difficulty breathing
• collapsed or become unresponsive
• heavy or uncontrolled bleeding
• a serious road traffic or fall injury
• seizures, particularly repeated or prolonged seizures
• severe pain
• very pale, blue or grey gums
• a swollen abdomen with distress
• suspected poisoning
• suspected heatstroke
• a serious eye injury
• a deep wound or an object embedded in a wound

You do not have to diagnose the problem before phoning.

My When Should I Call the Vet? guide looks in more detail at warning signs and the difference between something you may be able to monitor and something that needs prompt veterinary advice.

Heatstroke: cool first, transport second

Heatstroke is a veterinary emergency.

It can happen during exercise as well as when a dog is trapped in a hot place. Warm, humid conditions can be particularly difficult because dogs rely heavily on panting to lose heat.

Signs can include:

• excessive panting
• distressed or noisy breathing
• drooling
• seeking shade or water
• vomiting or diarrhoea
• weakness
• confusion
• wobbling
• collapse
• seizures

Current veterinary guidance has changed from some of the advice owners may remember from years ago.

If you suspect heatstroke:

1. Stop exercise.
2. Move your dog somewhere cool or shaded.
3. Start cooling them straight away.
4. Wet their body with water that is cooler than the dog. Cold tap water is suitable according to current PDSA guidance.
5. Create airflow with a fan, air conditioning or a breeze where possible.
6. Offer drinking water without forcing them to drink.
7. Contact your vet as soon as cooling has started.
8. Continue following your vet’s instructions.

Do not wrap an overheating dog in a wet towel. A wet towel underneath them is different from covering them with one and trapping heat.

The simple phrase I remember is:

Cool first. Transport second.

That does not mean delaying veterinary help. It means starting useful cooling immediately while arranging veterinary care.

Read my full Heatstroke in Dogs: Signs, First Aid and When to Call a Vet guide for the current advice.

Read the Royal Veterinary College heatstroke guidance

Choking and breathing emergencies

=A dog that is genuinely choking may panic, paw at their mouth, struggle to breathe or be unable to make normal sounds.

Breathing problems are an emergency, whether or not choking is the cause.

If it is safe to look into the mouth and you can clearly see an easily accessible object, you may be able to remove it carefully. Do not blindly push your fingers into the mouth or throat of a conscious, frightened dog.

If your dog cannot breathe normally, you cannot safely remove the obstruction, or you are unsure what is happening, contact an emergency vet immediately.

For detailed choking first-aid instructions, use current veterinary guidance rather than relying on something you once saw demonstrated online.

Read the PDSA first aid for choking

Poisoning and things dogs should not eat

Dogs investigate the world with their mouths, which occasionally causes problems.

Potential hazards include:

• chocolate
• grapes, raisins and sultanas
• onions, garlic and related plants
• some sweeteners such as xylitol
• medicines
• cleaning chemicals
• pesticides and garden products
• some plants and fungi
• substances picked up while walking

My Toxic Foods for Dogs guide covers common food hazards in more detail.

If you think your dog has eaten or been exposed to something poisonous, contact your vet promptly.

Do not wait for symptoms to appear. Some toxins can take time to cause obvious signs.

Do not try to make your dog vomit unless a veterinary professional specifically tells you to do so.

Keep the packaging, label, photograph or details of whatever your dog may have eaten, if this can be done safely. Your vet may need to know what the substance was, roughly how much was involved and when it happened.

Cuts, wounds and bleeding

Paws encounter glass, sharp stones, thorns and all sorts of rubbish during normal walks.

For a small superficial graze, clean water or sterile saline may be enough to rinse away dirt while you assess the injury.

If a wound is bleeding heavily, apply firm pressure with a clean dressing or cloth and contact your vet.

Do not repeatedly lift the dressing to see whether the bleeding has stopped.

If something such as glass, metal, a stick or barbed wire is embedded in a wound, do not pull it out. Removing it may increase bleeding or cause further damage.

Deep wounds, heavily bleeding wounds, painful wounds, bites and wounds containing a foreign object need veterinary assessment.

You can find more detailed guidance in:

Cuts and Grazes in Dogs

Dog Caught in Barbed Wire: What to Do and When to Call a Vet

Eye problems need particular care

Eyes are one area where I would be cautious about home treatment.

Squinting, repeated blinking, redness, discharge, swelling, pawing at an eye or a visible injury can all deserve veterinary advice.

Grass seeds, twigs and other foreign material can also affect the eye.

Do not poke around an injured eye or attempt to pull out something that appears embedded.

The existing First Aid for Eye Injuries guide on this site is being reviewed as part of this Health & First Aid update. Until that review is complete, I recommend contacting your vet promptly when an eye appears injured or painful.

Grass seeds: small objects that can cause big problems

Grass seeds are an important seasonal risk on walks through long or dry grass.

Their sharp shape allows them to become trapped in fur and work into places including:

• between the toes
• ears
• eyes
• nose
• skin

After walks through long grass, check your dog’s paws, ears and coat.

Things worth noticing include sudden limping, persistent paw licking, head shaking, sneezing, swelling or an irritated eye.

A seed sitting loosely on the coat can be removed before it causes trouble. If one appears to have entered the skin, ear, eye or nose, contact your vet rather than digging around for it.

Read my Grass Seeds and Dogs: Risks, Prevention and Practical Advice guide for more detail.

Fleas, ticks and other parasites

Parasites are primarily a prevention and health issue rather than an emergency first-aid problem, but they belong within this wider health cluster.

Ticks are particularly worth checking for after woodland and long-grass walks.

I regularly look around areas such as:

• ears and head
• neck
• armpits
• groin
• legs
• between toes

Use a proper tick-removal tool and follow its instructions rather than squeezing, burning or covering a tick with substances.

Treatment and prevention decisions should be based on your individual dog’s risk and veterinary advice rather than automatically assuming every dog requires the same product.

My current Fleas and Ticks on Dogs: Signs, Checks and Safe Treatment guide covers this properly, alongside my wider Dog Parasites information.

Check your dog after a walk

One of the most useful health habits does not require a first-aid emergency at all.

Take a minute after a walk to look at the dog in front of you.

I check:

Paws and nails

Look for cuts, damaged nails, thorns, stones, grass seeds and anything lodged between the toes.

Legs and movement

Notice swelling, tenderness, limping or a change in how your dog is using a leg.

Ears

Look for redness or anything unusual. Sudden repeated head shaking after long grass can be particularly worth investigating.

Eyes

Notice squinting, redness, discharge or anything that looks different from normal.

Coat and skin

Look and feel for ticks, grass seeds, cuts, lumps, sore areas or anything caught in the coat.

Harness and collar areas

Check for rubbing, trapped debris or irritated skin where equipment sits.

My Check Your Dog After a Walk guide takes you through the complete routine.

Limping, pain and changes in movement

Not every health concern starts with an obvious injury.

Sometimes the first sign is simply that your dog does something differently.

They may:

• walk more slowly
• hesitate at a kerb
• struggle to get up after resting
• stop wanting to jump
• shorten their stride
• favour one leg
• become reluctant to continue a familiar route
• become unusually sensitive about being touched

I do not diagnose pain.

What I can do, as someone who walks the same dog regularly, is notice when their normal pattern changes.

If a dog suddenly starts limping, I would stop the walk rather than encourage them to carry on to complete the booked time.

For more on observation, read What I Notice on a Dog Walk: Small Changes Worth Mentioning to Your Vet.

Age-related mobility, comfort, and later-life care fall primarily under my existing Senior Dog Care cornerstone, so the Health & First Aid hub should support that guide rather than duplicate it.

Alabama rot: be aware without becoming alarmed

Alabama rot, or CRGV, receives a lot of attention because it can be very serious.

Fortunately, it is rare.

It can cause unexplained skin sores and, in more serious cases, kidney problems. UK cases have been particularly associated with wetter months and with dogs that have walked in muddy or woodland environments, although the exact cause remains unknown.

Do not assume that every small mark on your dog’s leg after a muddy walk is Alabama rot.

However, if your dog develops an unexplained sore, particularly alongside signs such as low energy, reduced appetite, vomiting or changes in drinking or urination, contact your vet.

For the moment, I am keeping Alabama rot information here rather than creating another standalone article unless there is evidence that a separate guide would genuinely add value.

Allergic reactions and insect stings

A mild local reaction to an insect sting can look very different from a serious allergic reaction.

Watch particularly for:

• rapidly developing facial or muzzle swelling
• breathing difficulties
• weakness
• collapse

Difficulty breathing or collapse is an emergency.

Do not give human antihistamines or other medication simply because somebody online recommends a dose. Speak to your vet about what is appropriate for your individual dog.

Build a useful dog first-aid kit

A first-aid kit is worth having, but more equipment does not automatically make you better prepared.

The most useful kit contains practical items you know how to use, along with your dog’s emergency information.

I keep a larger kit available at home and a smaller, practical version for walks.

Useful basics can include:

• veterinary and emergency contact details
• clean wound dressings
• gauze
• suitable bandage material
• disposable gloves
• blunt-ended scissors
• sterile saline
• clean towels
• a foil emergency blanket
• a tick-removal tool
• a torch
• a spare lead
• your dog’s important medical and medication information

I have put the complete list, what I use, what I would leave out and the relevant product recommendations in my separate Dog First Aid Kit for Home and Walks: What to Include guide.

That is also where you will find any relevant affiliate recommendations.

A kit is preparation.

It is not permission to treat serious injuries yourself.

Make an emergency plan before you need it

A good emergency plan is usually more valuable than another gadget.

Keep the following information somewhere easy to find:

• your normal vet’s telephone number
• your vet’s out-of-hours arrangements
• the nearest emergency veterinary practice
• your dog’s insurance details
• medication and important medical information
• an emergency contact
• microchip information
• a recent photograph of your dog

If someone else cares for your dog, make sure they know where this information is kept.

This matters for dog walkers and house sitters too. I want emergency arrangements agreed before something goes wrong, not while everybody is trying to make decisions under pressure.

Why first-aid training still matters

Reading guides can help you recognise problems, but practical first-aid training gives you the chance to learn and practise skills before an emergency happens.

My Ofqual Level 3 Canine First Aid qualification does not make me a vet.

What it does give me is structured training in recognising an emergency, responding within my competence and knowing when professional veterinary treatment is needed.

For a pet-care professional, I think that distinction is important.

The aim is not to show how much treatment I can perform myself.

The aim is to safely look after the dog in front of me.

Health awareness during my one-to-one dog walks

One advantage of walking dogs individually is that I can become familiar with how that particular dog normally moves and behaves.

I am not comparing them with ten other dogs in a group.

I can notice that the dog who normally trots up a particular path suddenly slows down, that somebody is unusually reluctant to put weight on a paw, or that their breathing does not look normal for the conditions.

If something changes, I can shorten or stop the walk, make the dog comfortable, contact the owner and seek veterinary help when necessary.

First-aid knowledge is therefore part of the service rather than a separate add-on.

If you are looking for calm, one-to-one pet care in Finchley and nearby parts of North London, you can read about my pet-care services and how I work.

Related dog health and first-aid guides

Start with the guide that best matches what you need:

• Heatstroke in Dogs: Signs, First Aid and When to Call a Vet
• When Should I Call the Vet?
• Dog First Aid Kit for Home and Walks: What to Include
• First Aid on Dog Walks: Safety Tips for Owners
• Fleas and Ticks on Dogs: Signs, Checks and Safe Treatment
• Grass Seeds and Dogs: Risks, Prevention and Practical Advice
• Cuts and Grazes in Dogs
• Dog Caught in Barbed Wire: What to Do and When to Call a Vet
• Toxic Foods for Dogs
• Check Your Dog After a Walk
• What I Notice on a Dog Walk: Small Changes Worth Mentioning to Your Vet
• Dog Parasites: Prevention, Checks and Veterinary Advice

When should I take my dog straight to a vet?

Breathing difficulties, collapse, unresponsiveness, uncontrolled bleeding, severe pain, seizures, suspected poisoning, heatstroke and serious eye injuries are among the situations that need prompt veterinary advice.

Should I cool a dog with heatstroke gradually?

Current veterinary advice has moved away from older recommendations to delay or slowly cool an overheating dog. Start cooling immediately while contacting your vet. Current PDSA guidance says cold tap water is suitable, while the Royal Veterinary College promotes the principle of “cool first, transport second”.

Can I make my dog vomit if they have eaten something poisonous?

No. Do not try to make your dog vomit unless a veterinary professional specifically instructs you to do so. Contact your vet promptly and tell them what your dog may have eaten.

Should I remove glass or another object from a wound?

Do not remove an object that is embedded in a wound. Avoid pressing on it and contact your vet.

Do I need a special dog first-aid kit?

A dog-specific kit is useful because it can contain suitable clean dressings, saline, a tick tool, veterinary contact details and other practical items. It should not contain treatments or human medicines that encourage you to treat medical problems without veterinary advice.

Should I check my dog after every walk?

A quick routine check is worthwhile, particularly after woodland, long grass, muddy ground or rough paths. Look at paws, nails, legs, ears, eyes, coat and the areas beneath your dog’s walking equipment.

Is every limp an emergency?

No, but a sudden limp is information. Stop strenuous exercise and look for an obvious external problem, such as a damaged nail or a sore paw, without repeatedly manipulating a painful limb. If your dog cannot bear weight, appears very painful, has suffered significant trauma or you are concerned, contact your vet.

Is Alabama rot common?

No. Alabama rot is rare in the UK. It is sensible to know the warning signs without assuming every skin mark is the disease. Contact your vet if your dog has unexplained sores or is unwell.

A calm response is more useful than trying to know everything

You do not need to become a veterinary professional to be a responsible dog owner.

Learn what is normal for your dog.

Notice when that changes.

Know where your emergency information is.

Keep a sensible first-aid kit.

Understand which situations cannot wait.

Most importantly, be willing to stop and ask for professional help.

That is what useful first aid looks like to me.

Veterinary disclaimer

I am a professional dog walker and hold an Ofqual Level 3 qualification in Canine First Aid. I am not a veterinary surgeon and the information on this page is for general first-aid awareness and owner education only.

It is not intended to diagnose a health problem, prescribe treatment or replace advice from your veterinary practice.

If your dog is injured, unwell or showing symptoms that concern you, contact a qualified veterinary professional. In an emergency, contact your veterinary practice or nearest emergency veterinary provider immediately.

The change in heatstroke in that rewrite is deliberate and important. RVC currently recommends “cool first, transport second”, while current PDSA guidance says to begin cooling immediately and that cold tap water is suitable. (Royal Veterinary College) The poisoning, bleeding and embedded-object advice is also aligned with current PDSA veterinary guidance. The wording on grass seed and Alabama rot is deliberately cautious and consistent with the guidance from Blue Cross and PDSA.

Finally, read why every dog owner should undertake a first aid course, even if it’s an online one like Rachel Bean’s online first aid course