Updated July 2026

Cats are often described as independent.

Anyone who shares their home with one knows it is not quite that simple.

Cats depend on familiar routines, suitable food, clean water, safe places to rest, appropriate litter arrangements, opportunities to play and people who notice when something has changed.

Some cats meet visitors at the door.

Others watch quietly from the stairs.

Some enjoy interactive play and plenty of company.

Others prefer somebody to prepare their food, clean the litter tray and then respect their personal space.

Good cat care starts with understanding the individual cat in front of you.

This Cat Care Hub brings together my practical guides about everyday feline care, kittens, senior cats, behaviour, enrichment, holiday planning and professional cat sitting in Finchley.

You can use it as a starting point, then follow the links to the detailed guide most relevant to your cat.

Need cat sitting in Finchley?

I provide calm, one-to-one cat-sitting visits in Finchley and selected nearby areas.

Visits can include:

Feeding your cat’s normal food.
Refreshing drinking water.
Cleaning litter trays.
Agreed medication support.
Calm company.
Play and enrichment where wanted.
General welfare observations.
Photographs and updates.
Basic agreed home checks.

I do not force nervous or hiding cats to interact.

I follow the routine we have agreed and allow your cat to decide how much contact they want.

You can also:

Why I created this cat-care hub

Although my business is called Finchley Dog Walker, cats have always formed an important part of the work I do.

Before starting the business, I spent 18 years working in an office where I also helped care for resident cats, including Devon Rex, Siamese and Sphynx cats.

Since establishing Finchley Dog Walker in 2011, I have cared for:

Confident cats.
Shy and nervous cats.
Rescue cats.
Indoor cats.
Outdoor cats.
Kittens.
Senior cats.
Cats receiving medication.
Multi-cat households.
Homes containing cats, dogs and small animals.

Those cats have taught me that a successful visit is not measured by whether the cat poses for a photograph.

A nervous cat remaining safely in their hiding place, eating after I leave and using the litter tray normally may be coping perfectly well.

A confident cat may follow me from room to room and expect a full conversation before breakfast.

Both deserve care that suits them.

This hub combines that everyday experience with information from trusted organisations including Cats Protection, PDSA, International Cat Care and the RSPCA.

Start here: find the cat advice you need

Are you planning a holiday?

Begin with:

Are you caring for a new kitten?

Read:

Do you have an older cat?

Start with:

Is your cat indoors or easily bored?

Explore:

Are you preparing for hot weather?

Use:

Are you choosing holiday equipment?

Read:

The foundations of good cat care

Cats may have very different personalities, but their basic welfare needs remain similar.

Every cat needs:

Suitable food.
Fresh drinking water.
Clean and accessible toileting areas.
Comfortable places to sleep.
Safe hiding places.
Opportunities to scratch.
Suitable play and enrichment.
Regular health care.
Protection from avoidable hazards.
The ability to move away from people or animals when they want space.

The environment should give your cat choices.

They should not have to compete with another cat for every bowl, bed, tray or hiding place.

PDSA recommends providing one of each important resource for every cat in the household, plus one spare. Resources should also be positioned separately rather than grouped together in one small area.

For two cats, that may mean providing at least:

Three litter trays.
Three water locations.
Three suitable sleeping or resting places.
Several hiding places.
More than one scratching area.
Separate feeding positions where competition occurs.

Providing several resources does not guarantee that cats will become friends.

It does make it easier for them to avoid unnecessary conflict.

Understanding your cat’s normal behaviour

One of the most useful things you can do is learn what is normal for your individual cat.

Consider:

Where do they usually sleep?
How quickly do they eat?
How much do they normally drink?
How often do they use the litter tray?
Which rooms do they use?
Do they greet visitors or hide?
When do they normally play?
How do they walk and jump?
How much do they groom?
What sounds do they usually make?
How affectionate are they normally?

A change does not automatically mean your cat is ill.

However, a sudden or persistent change deserves attention.

Cats can be subtle when they are worried, uncomfortable or in pain.

Possible changes include:

Hiding more often.
Eating less.
Drinking noticeably more or less.
Sleeping in unusual places.
Becoming more vocal.
Becoming unusually quiet.
Avoiding touch.
Grooming less.
Overgrooming.
Moving more slowly.
Hesitating before jumping.
Toileting outside the litter tray.
Becoming irritable or defensive.

Contact your vet when behaviour changes suddenly, persists or is accompanied by physical symptoms.

Cat body language and personal space

Cats communicate through their whole body.

Their eyes, ears, whiskers, posture, tail and movement can all tell you something about how they are feeling.

A relaxed cat may show:

Soft or half-closed eyes.
Relaxed whiskers.
Ears in a natural forward position.
Loose muscles.
A comfortable sleeping position.
Slow blinking.
Normal grooming.
Interest in food, play or their surroundings.

A worried cat may:

Crouch low.
Flatten or rotate their ears.
Widen their eyes.
Hide.
Freeze.
Move away.
Tuck their tail close to their body.
Stop eating while somebody is nearby.
Become unusually watchful.

A frightened cat may:

Hiss.
Growl.
Swipe.
Arch their back.
Puff up their coat.
Attempt to escape.
Bite if they feel trapped.

These behaviours are communication.

They are not signs that a cat is spiteful, dominant or deliberately difficult.

Give the cat space and remove pressure where it is safe to do so.

Do not punish growling, hissing or swiping. Punishment may increase fear and remove the warning signals that tell you the cat is uncomfortable.

Cats Protection has further information about recognising stress in cats.

Working with shy, nervous and rescue cats

Many of the cats I care for do not immediately trust unfamiliar people.

Some have been rescued.

Some have always been cautious.

Others are confident with their family but disappear whenever a visitor enters the house.

I do not measure success by how quickly I can touch a nervous cat.

During visits, I may:

Speak quietly.
Avoid direct staring.
Move slowly.
Prepare food without approaching the hiding place.
Sit at a distance.
Place an agreed treat nearby.
Monitor food and water.
Check the litter tray.
Look for indirect signs of normal activity.
Allow the cat to approach when they are ready.

Pulling a cat from beneath a bed simply to prove that they are present can make future visits more difficult.

There are circumstances where a hidden cat must be located because of a medical, safety or emergency concern. In ordinary circumstances, however, patient observation is usually more helpful than forced interaction.

My Cat Sitting in Finchley service is particularly suited to cats that benefit from calm, predictable care in familiar surroundings.

Feeding your cat

A suitable main food should normally be:

Complete.
Made for cats.
Appropriate for the cat’s life stage.
Suitable for their health.
Fed in an appropriate quantity.
Affordable and available enough to use consistently.
Something the cat reliably eats.

The word “complete” is important.

A complete food is formulated to provide the nutrients required for the species and life stage when it is fed as instructed.

Complementary foods may include:

Treats.
Toppers.
Broths.
Some tins or pouches of fish or meat.
Lickable products.
Supplements.

A complementary food may look like an ordinary meal but should not automatically form the main diet.

Wet food, dry food or a measured combination may all be suitable for a healthy cat.

The best choice depends on:

Age.
Health.
Body condition.
Activity.
Dental comfort.
Food preference.
Feeding routine.
Veterinary advice.
What you can feed reliably over the long term.

Do not change a prescribed diet without speaking to your vet.

Do not make a sudden food change immediately before a holiday unless it is medically necessary.

My full guide to choosing cat food explains complete and complementary foods, wet and dry diets, portion control, feeding kittens and senior cats, raw food, veterinary diets and food labels.

Fresh drinking water

Cats should always have easy access to clean drinking water.

Some cats drink readily from a bowl.

Others prefer:

A wide, shallow dish.
Water positioned away from food.
Several bowls around the home.
A fountain.
Water on a different floor.
Water placed near a favourite resting area.

A fountain can be useful, but it should not be your cat’s only water source.

Pumps can stop.

Filters can become blocked.

Power supplies can be disconnected.

Some cats simply decide they no longer want to use it.

Provide ordinary bowls as a backup and show your sitter how the fountain is cleaned and topped up.

A noticeable change in thirst can be medically important, particularly when it is accompanied by changes in appetite, weight or urination.

Litter trays

Litter trays provide useful information about your cat’s health as well as a place to toilet.

Good litter-tray arrangements include:

Enough trays for the household.
A quiet and accessible location.
Regular removal of urine and faeces.
Familiar litter.
A tray large enough for the cat to turn around.
Easy access for kittens and senior cats.
Distance from food and water.
Separate positions rather than every tray being placed together.

A useful starting point is one tray per cat plus one additional tray.

An outdoor cat should still have access to an indoor tray, particularly during:

Bad weather.
Illness.
Recovery from surgery.
Fireworks.
Building work.
A period of restricted outdoor access.
A holiday when their normal routine may change.

Changes worth noticing include:

Urinating more or less.
Straining.
Repeated visits without producing urine.
Crying while using the tray.
Blood.
Diarrhoea.
Constipation.
Suddenly toileting elsewhere.
Avoiding a previously accepted tray.

A cat that appears unable to pass urine requires immediate veterinary attention. A blocked bladder can be life-threatening.

Do not assume inappropriate toileting is spite or bad behaviour. Medical discomfort, tray cleanliness, litter preference, access and stress should all be considered.

Scratching is normal

Cats scratch to:

Stretch.
maintain their claws.
Leave scent signals.
Mark familiar areas.
Express normal behaviour.

The goal is not to stop scratching.

It is to provide a suitable place for it.

Cats may prefer:

A tall vertical post.
A horizontal cardboard scratcher.
A sloping surface.
A firm fabric.
Natural wood.
Several scratching areas around the home.

A vertical post should be tall and stable enough for the cat to stretch fully without it wobbling.

Place scratching options near:

Sleeping areas.
Doorways.
Existing scratching locations.
Frequently used routes.
Areas where the cat greets people.

Do not punish a cat for scratching furniture. Place a more suitable alternative nearby and reward or encourage its use calmly.

Play and enrichment

Cats retain natural behaviours associated with hunting, including:

Watching.
Stalking.
Chasing.
Pouncing.
Pawing.
Searching.
Climbing.

Enrichment provides suitable opportunities to express those behaviours.

Ideas include:

Wand-toy play.
Food searches.
Puzzle feeders.
Cardboard boxes.
Paper bags with handles removed.
Cat tunnels.
Climbing shelves.
Window perches.
Scratching areas.
Rotating familiar toys.
Small amounts of normal food hidden in easy locations.

Short play sessions may suit many cats better than one long session.

Watch the cat rather than the clock.

Stop when they lose interest or appear frustrated.

String, elastic, ribbons, feather wands and fishing-rod toys should be stored safely after supervised play. They can create swallowing or entanglement risks when left unattended.

Introduce puzzle feeders gradually.

Make the first attempt easy and continue providing an ordinary feeding option until you know the cat understands and enjoys the activity.

International Cat Care has useful advice about introducing puzzle feeders.

For more ideas, read Indoor Cat Enrichment While You Are Away.

Creating a cat-friendly home

A cat-friendly home does not need to be filled with expensive furniture.

It needs to provide choices.

Consider whether your cat can:

Rest somewhere quiet.
Hide without being disturbed.
Sit somewhere raised.
Reach food without passing another cat.
Drink away from the litter tray.
Use a clean toilet area.
Scratch.
Play.
Look outside.
Move between important areas without feeling trapped.
Avoid children, visitors or other animals when they need space.

Vertical space can be particularly valuable in smaller homes.

A stable cat tree, shelf or safe window perch may allow a cat to observe the room without being approached.

Never assume that a hiding cat needs to be removed.

A suitable hiding place can help a worried cat feel safer and may allow them to recover from stress more quickly.

Indoor and outdoor cats

There is no single arrangement that suits every cat.

Some live happy and enriched lives indoors.

Others are used to regular outdoor access.

Your decisions should take into account:

The cat’s age.
Health.
Previous lifestyle.
Confidence.
Local traffic.
Garden security.
Nearby cats.
Risk of theft or getting lost.
Your housing situation.
Veterinary advice.

Indoor cats depend entirely on the home environment for exercise, stimulation and choice.

They may particularly benefit from:

Climbing opportunities.
Window watching.
Several resting places.
Regular play.
Food-searching activities.
Scratching options.
Quiet areas.
Predictable interaction.

Outdoor access also creates risks.

Keep microchip information current and check outdoor cats regularly for:

Cuts.
Bite wounds.
Limping.
Ticks.
Damaged claws.
Weight changes.
Unusual hiding.
Reduced appetite.

In England, owned cats must be microchipped before they reach 20 weeks of age, including cats that normally remain indoors. Keep your details updated on an approved database.

Routine matters

Cats notice small changes.

They may know:

When breakfast normally arrives.
Which cupboard contains their food.
When a particular door opens.
Where you sit in the evening.
Which curtains are opened each morning.
When play normally happens.
Which person usually gives medication.
What happens before bedtime.

A predictable routine can help a cat feel secure.

That does not mean every day must be identical.

It means avoiding unnecessary changes and introducing important changes gradually wherever possible.

During cat-sitting visits, I try to maintain the parts of the routine that matter to your cat.

That may include:

Feeding at familiar times.
Using the usual bowls.
Cleaning trays in the normal way.
Opening an agreed curtain.
Following the normal outdoor-access plan.
Offering play at the usual point in the visit.
Leaving a nervous cat undisturbed.
Sitting quietly with a sociable cat.

Small details can make the home feel more normal while you are away.

Caring for a kitten

A kitten is not simply a smaller adult cat.

Kittens are growing, learning and developing rapidly.

They may require:

Several meals each day.
More frequent supervision.
Safe play.
A secure environment.
Accessible litter trays.
A complete kitten food.
Opportunities to sleep without disturbance.
Gradual introductions to people, animals and household experiences.
Veterinary care, vaccination and parasite advice.
Microchipping.

Kitten-proofing should include checking:

Electrical cables.
Gaps behind appliances.
Reclining furniture.
Open washing machines and tumble dryers.
Toilets.
Unsafe windows.
Houseplants.
String and elastic.
Small items that can be swallowed.
Cleaning products.
Human medication.
Doors and escape routes.

Young kittens should not automatically receive the same holiday-care arrangement as a healthy adult cat.

Their age, feeding schedule and the length of time they would otherwise be alone must all be considered.

Read my full Bringing Home a New Kitten guide.

I also offer kitten feeding, play and home visits in Finchley, subject to the kitten’s age, routine, location and the level of care required.

Caring for a senior cat

Older cats often benefit from small adjustments rather than dramatic changes.

Consider:

Low-entry litter trays.
Food and water that are easy to reach.
Non-slip surfaces.
Warm and supportive resting places.
Steps or ramps to favourite areas.
Several water locations.
A secure carrier with easy access.
Gentler play.
More frequent observation.
Regular veterinary checks.

Changes that are sometimes dismissed as normal ageing may be linked to pain or illness.

Speak to your vet when an older cat:

Loses weight.
Drinks more.
Eats less.
Becomes unusually hungry.
Stops grooming normally.
Struggles to jump.
Hesitates on stairs.
Becomes confused.
Vocalises during the night.
Toilets outside the tray.
Becomes less tolerant of touch.
Changes their sleeping habits.

An older cat may also require a different holiday-care plan from a healthy young adult.

Read Caring for a Senior Cat for a detailed guide to health, comfort, mobility, feeding and home adjustments.

Health care and preventative care

Routine veterinary care may include:

Health examinations.
Vaccination advice.
Weight monitoring.
Dental checks.
Parasite advice.
Neutering discussions.
Microchipping.
Monitoring existing conditions.
Senior health screening where appropriate.

Your vet will recommend a plan based on your cat’s:

Age.
Lifestyle.
Health.
Outdoor access.
Medical history.
Local disease risk.

Do not use a dog flea or tick product on a cat unless your veterinary practice has specifically confirmed that it is safe.

Some dog products contain permethrin, which is highly toxic to cats.

When to contact your vet

Contact your veterinary practice when your cat shows a sudden, persistent or concerning change.

Examples include:

Reduced appetite.
Repeated vomiting.
Persistent diarrhoea.
Increased drinking.
Weight loss.
Difficulty chewing.
A painful or swollen area.
New limping.
Breathing changes.
Persistent coughing.
Unusual weakness.
Sudden aggression.
Continuous hiding.
A major change in toileting.
Wounds or bite injuries.
A change in consciousness or awareness.

Seek urgent veterinary advice when your cat:

Appears unable to pass urine.
Has difficulty breathing.
Collapses.
Has a seizure.
Has experienced major trauma.
Is bleeding heavily.
May have swallowed something toxic.
Is showing signs of heatstroke.
Is repeatedly vomiting and becoming weak.
Is unresponsive or severely disorientated.

Do not wait for a cat to look dramatically ill.

Cats may hide pain and illness, so a change from their normal behaviour can be important.

Planning care when you go away

For many cats, remaining at home is the least disruptive holiday-care option.

They retain:

Familiar smells.
Their normal sleeping places.
Their own litter trays.
Their usual feeding locations.
Their hiding places.
Their normal territory.

This does not mean they should be left with a large bowl of food and an automatic feeder.

Cats Protection advises arranging for a reliable person to visit at least twice each day while you are away.

Very young cats, senior cats and cats with health conditions may require more frequent visits or a different form of care.

A single visit may still be suitable for:

A long day away from home.
Shared care where a relative or neighbour provides another check.
Feeding support while another responsible person remains involved.
A short daytime absence.
An agreed situation where somebody is also staying in the property.

For a holiday where nobody is staying in the home, plan for at least two proper checks each day.

Read How Often Should a Cat Sitter Visit? before arranging your care schedule.

Cat sitter, neighbour or cattery?

There is no single answer for every household.

A professional cat sitter may suit you when:

Your cat is happiest at home.
You want visits at agreed times.
You need professional accountability.
Your cat is nervous or strongly routine-based.
You want photographs and updates.
Medication support has been agreed.
You need someone comfortable monitoring food, water and litter trays.
You want a clear emergency plan.

A neighbour or relative may suit you when:

They are reliable.
They understand your cat.
They are comfortable with the responsibility.
They can commit to the required number of visits.
They know what to do during an emergency.
They are willing to follow written instructions.

A reputable cattery may suit you when:

Your cat has boarded successfully before.
Your home cannot be accessed safely.
Suitable home visits are unavailable.
The cattery can manage the required care.
Your cat is confident with travel and unfamiliar environments.
Veterinary or specialist boarding is safer for complex medical needs.

Whichever option you choose, check:

Experience.
Insurance where relevant.
References or reviews.
Medication competence.
Emergency arrangements.
Security.
Backup arrangements.
Who will actually provide the care.
Whether the schedule genuinely suits your cat.

My detailed cat sitter, neighbour or cattery comparison can help you decide.

What happens during a cat-sitting visit?

Every visit is based on the routine agreed with the owner.

A visit may include:

Food and water

Preparing the normal meal.
Recording appetite where required.
Removing old food.
Washing bowls.
Refreshing water.
Checking fountains and backup bowls.

Litter care

Removing waste.
Checking the tray has been used.
Cleaning around the tray.
Watching for changes in urine or faeces.
Replacing litter as agreed.

Welfare observations

Looking at movement.
Noticing changes in breathing.
Checking general behaviour.
Looking for vomit, diarrhoea or injuries.
Monitoring whether a nervous cat has moved between normal locations.
Checking that the home environment remains safe.

Interaction

Calm company.
Play.
Grooming where appropriate.
A fuss when the cat requests it.
Space when the cat prefers to be left alone.

Agreed home tasks

Bringing in post.
Opening or closing agreed curtains.
Moving agreed bins.
Turning agreed lights on or off.
Watering a small number of indoor plants where arranged.
Carrying out a basic security check.

Pet care remains the priority.

Longer or more involved household tasks may require additional booked time.

What to leave for your cat sitter

Prepare:

Enough normal food for the booking.
A reasonable spare supply.
Clear portion sizes.
Feeding times.
Storage instructions.
Water-bowl and fountain information.
Enough familiar litter.
Litter-tray instructions.
Medication and written instructions.
Veterinary details.
An emergency contact.
Travel contact details.
Your expected return time.
Instructions in case your return is delayed.
Normal hiding places.
Outdoor-access rules.
Cat-flap instructions.
Carrier location.
Cleaning supplies.
Details of cameras or recording devices.
Tested keys and access information.
Instructions for automatic equipment.
Backup plans if equipment fails.

Avoid vague instructions such as “give a scoop” when several scoops are present.

Use grams, pouches, tins or another consistent measurement.

My What to Leave for Your Cat Sitter guide provides a fuller checklist.

Medication while you are away

Tell your sitter about medication before confirming the booking.

Discuss:

The medication.
The dose.
Timing.
Storage.
How it is normally given.
Whether it must be given with food.
What happens if the cat refuses.
What happens if a dose is missed.
Signs that require veterinary advice.
Whether the sitter has successfully demonstrated the agreed method.

A sitter should not change a dose, repeat a missed dose or improvise a new method without appropriate veterinary instructions.

Complex medical needs may require:

A veterinary professional.
Specialist boarding.
Overnight care.
More frequent visits.
A different carer with suitable experience.

The safety of the cat must come before securing a booking.

Can technology replace a cat sitter?

No.

Automatic feeders, cameras, water fountains and self-cleaning litter trays may support a care plan.

They cannot carry out a physical welfare check.

A camera cannot:

Smell spoiled food.
Find vomit outside its field of view.
Confirm normal urine output.
Refill an overturned bowl.
Assess dehydration.
Check an injury hidden beneath fur.
Open a door when a cat is trapped.
Take the cat to a vet.

An automatic feeder cannot explain why food remains uneaten.

A fountain cannot tell you that its pump has stopped.

Introduce equipment well before your holiday and leave a simple backup.

Read:

The product guide explains feeders, water fountains, cameras, litter equipment, enrichment and emergency items. It also includes affiliate links and the appropriate disclosure.

Hot-weather cat care

Cats often seek shade, rest more and reduce their activity during warm weather.

They can still overheat or become dehydrated, particularly when they are:

Trapped in a shed or garage.
Shut inside a conservatory.
Unable to reach water.
Living in a hot upper-floor flat.
Very young.
Older.
Overweight.
Long-haired.
Flat-faced.
Living with heart or breathing problems.

During warm weather:

Provide several water sources.
Keep water away from direct sunlight.
Close curtains before rooms heat up.
Give access to cooler floors and shaded areas.
Secure windows.
Keep conservatories inaccessible.
Remove uneaten wet food promptly.
Reduce vigorous play during the hottest period.
Check sheds and garages before closing them.
Monitor breathing and behaviour.

Signs of possible heatstroke include:

Panting.
Rapid breathing.
Drooling.
Weakness.
Vomiting.
Diarrhoea.
Confusion.
Wobbliness.
Collapse.
Seizures.

Heatstroke is a veterinary emergency.

Use my:

Cats during autumn and winter

Seasonal risks continue after summer.

Autumn and winter can bring:

Fireworks.
Bonfires.
Antifreeze.
Road salt.
Darker roads.
Cold sheds and garages.
Festive foods.
Decorations.
Visitors.
Changes in routine.
Toxic plants and flowers.

Keep antifreeze securely stored. Even small quantities can be dangerous.

Check sheds, garages, cars and outbuildings before closing or starting them.

Provide warm resting places for older or less mobile cats.

During fireworks, make sure your cat has:

Safe hiding areas.
Secure doors and windows.
Access to their litter tray.
Familiar bedding.
Food and water.
A quiet room where appropriate.

Avoid forcing them out of hiding.

Do cats get lonely or miss their owners?

Some cats appear highly independent.

Others form strong relationships with familiar people and routines.

A cat may notice:

Your absence.
A different person preparing food.
Changed household sounds.
An altered evening routine.
Missing play or interaction.
A different sleeping arrangement.

Possible responses include:

Increased vocalisation.
Hiding.
Clinginess when you return.
Changes in appetite.
Sleeping in your usual place.
Increased following.
Reduced play.
Appearing unsettled.

Do not assume that every behavioural change is emotional.

Pain, illness and environmental stress can produce similar signs.

Read:

Get in touch

WhatsApp 07707 763344

Complete Cat Care Resource Centre

Cat-sitting services and booking

Choosing holiday care

Preparing for a sitter

Cat behaviour and time apart

Everyday care

Summer and seasonal care

Get in touch

WhatsApp 07707 763344

Frequently asked questions

What are the basic needs of a cat?

A cat needs suitable food, fresh water, clean toileting areas, safe places to sleep and hide, opportunities to scratch and play, preventative health care and an environment that allows them to make choices.

How many litter trays should I provide?

A common starting point is one tray for each cat plus one additional tray.

Place them in separate, accessible positions rather than directly beside one another.

Should food, water and litter trays be kept together?

No.

Most cats prefer their eating, drinking and toileting resources to be separated.

Water may also be more appealing when it is positioned away from food.

Can indoor cats be happy?

Yes.

Indoor cats can live happy lives when their environment provides sufficient space, climbing, play, scratching, hiding, observation and regular interaction.

The individual cat’s previous lifestyle and personality should be considered.

How often should a cat sitter visit during a holiday?

Cats Protection recommends at least two visits each day.

Kittens, older cats and cats with certain health conditions may require more frequent visits, longer care or somebody staying in the home.

Can I use one visit a day?

A single visit may suit a long day out, shared care or another arrangement where a second responsible person is also checking the cat.

It should not normally be the only care provided throughout a holiday when nobody is staying in the home.

Can an automatic feeder replace visits?

No.

It can provide a scheduled meal, but it cannot confirm that your cat has eaten, clean a litter tray, refill spilt water, notice illness or respond to an emergency.

What should I leave for my cat sitter?

Leave clear feeding instructions, sufficient food and litter, medication information, veterinary details, emergency contacts, access instructions, the carrier, cleaning supplies and information about normal behaviour.

What if my cat hides from the sitter?

Hiding is common.

A good sitter should avoid forcing interaction and should monitor indirect signs including food intake, water, litter-tray use and movement around the home.

Can a cat sitter give medication?

Possibly, when the medication, method and schedule have been discussed and agreed in advance.

Complex treatment may require a veterinary professional or a different care arrangement.

How do I know whether my cat is unwell?

Look for changes from their normal appetite, drinking, movement, toileting, grooming, breathing, sleeping and social behaviour.

Contact your vet when a change is sudden, persistent or concerning.

When is a urinary problem an emergency?

A cat that repeatedly strains but cannot pass urine needs immediate veterinary attention.

Do not wait to see whether the problem improves.

Should I get another cat to provide company?

Not automatically.

Some cats enjoy living together. Others become stressed by sharing their home and resources.

Consider your existing cat’s personality, history and environment and seek professional advice before introducing another cat purely as company.

Cat sitting in Finchley and nearby areas

Many cats cope best when they can remain in the home they already know.

I provide calm cat-sitting visits in Finchley, Muswell Hill and selected nearby parts of North London, subject to location, availability and the needs of the individual cat.

My approach is based on:

Familiar routines.
Calm handling.
Patience.
Choice.
Low-pressure interaction.
Honest communication.
Watching for changes.
Staying within my competence.

I have provided professional pet care since 2011.

I am fully insured and Enhanced DBS checked.

Before a first booking, we will discuss:

Your postcode.
Travel dates.
The number of cats.
Ages.
Feeding routines.
Litter arrangements.
Indoor or outdoor access.
Health conditions.
Medication.
Behaviour.
Hiding places.
Emergency contacts.
The number and timing of visits.
Access and security.

Some cats will greet me immediately.

Others may take several visits before they decide to investigate.

I am comfortable with either response.

Read about Cat Sitting in Finchley, view current prices or contact Del with your postcode, dates and a little information about your cat.

WhatsApp: 07707 763344

Email: info@finchleydogwalker.co.uk

Trusted cat-care organisations

For independent health and welfare information, I recommend:

Disclaimer

This page provides general cat-care information and does not replace advice, diagnosis or treatment from your veterinary surgeon.

Every cat is different. Age, health, diet, mobility, behaviour, medication, home environment and previous experiences can all affect what care is suitable.

Under the Veterinary Surgeons Act 1966, the diagnosis of disease or injury and veterinary medical or surgical treatment are acts of veterinary surgery. Contact your veterinary practice when your cat is unwell, injured or showing a concerning change.

Do not change prescribed medication, a therapeutic diet or a veterinary treatment plan without speaking to the veterinary professional responsible for your cat’s care.

Seek urgent veterinary help if your cat has difficulty breathing, collapses, suffers significant trauma, may have been poisoned, shows signs of heatstroke or appears unable to pass urine.

Get in touch

WhatsApp 07707 763344